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Mack's 
Barbers' Guide 



8 



8 



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A Practical Hand -Book 

For Apprentices, Journeymen 
and Boss, Embracing a The- 
oretical Course in Barbering, 
as well as Recipes and Form- 
ulas for Toilet Waters, Face 
Lotions, Creams, Salves, Po- 
mades, Shampoos, Sea 
Foams, Hair Tonics, etc. 




Ry J. M. McCAMANT 



Press of 
WASATCH PRINTING CO. 

Ogden, Utah 



9 



^v 



l#0 Copies MeCe!¥G\. 

MAY 20 1908 

„ C«»yriff.. t.<#> 
3'uASS. A _ XXC. No. 
COHY B. 



Copyrighted. 1908, b> 
J. M. McCAMANT 



INTRODUCTORY 



MANY writings and criticisms have been published 
concerning' professional and other tradesmen, but 
comparatively few books, outside of periodicals, 
have been printed pertaining to the barber business 
or i htir trade. Perhaps this is because of incapability from 
Inexperience among the learned men, or possibly from indif- 
ference and lack of confidence among the tonsors. 

Every man is said to have his particular ambitions, 
whether this be true or not, I can say for myself only, that 
I have no other so great as that of being truly esteemed by 
my fellow men, by rendering myself worthy of their es- 
teem. 

To do this with my unacquainted friends, I must write 
with the spirit and kno wedge of my business. 

In compiling recipes and composing rubs I have tried 
to omit nothing essential to the Uplifting and upbuilding of 
the barbers and their trade; at the same time admitting 
that there may be a few superfluous lines, these being writ- 
ten to break the dull monotony of real facts and to make 
the study as interesting as possible. 

There is something unusual about a boy who of his 
own accord will seriously devote himself to study; even a 
man (a barber) who has discovered how sorely he needs 
education, and who has, therefore, a motive for study that 
a boy has not, will accomplish little without the aid of 
books which are interesting enough to enlighten him be- 
fore he is aware of the fact. These extra lines are surplus, 
if you have a mind to call them that, or written on this 
principle. Science for everybody will not meet the < act 
wants of the barber, and every example or illustration in 
this book relates directly or indirectly to barbering. 

The best definition or explanation of anything material 
is the thing itself, and the next best to this is a good pic- 
ture or explanatory illustration of it. Though the illus- 
trations and figures are by some of the best artists, and 
many of them are of high artistic merit, being part of the 
teaching apparatus of this book; still there has been no 
thought of making a mere picture book of it. It is more of 
a text book of scientific barbering. 

In reading this book, read carefully, and if you find 
paragraphs which you do not like, do not appeal to preju- 
dice; don't by any means let it beat you out of the good 



INTRODUCTORY 



tilings it contains for you, for the author has gleaned from 
every field at home and abroad to secure that which is of 
most interest and profit to the craftsmen of America. Quite 
an amount of research has been made at home and abroad 
to bring to bear all the force of some thoroughly trained 
and experienced minds, and wherever the object or theory 
was to be advanced by so doing he has freely drawn on 
the thoughts of others. 

By studying carefully the systems in this book the ap- 
prentice is enabled to learn by practice how to do a great 
many things quickly it would take years to accomplish 
without. Most all other- tradesmen or artists have had 
drawings, specifications or cuts to use in practicing their 
works, and to the author it has seemed strange that no 
one has undertaken the work of producing a book of this 
kind to guide the apprentice or workmen of ordinary 
caliber. 

This book is not written with the expectations that, 
should a man or boy memorize it he would be competent 
to hold a position at the chair, for book learning is not all. 
Practical experience is the most thorough teacher in any 
trade, art or profession, but you hav? to absolutely master 
the theory of either before you can practice the practical 
successfully. 

The study of correct barbering may be taught more 
completely by a fluent writer, if he is a practical workman, 
than it can by an inexperienced, incompetent master. 

To any one who notices mistakes in this work and 
overlooks them the author will feel grateful; he will also be 
grateful to the mind who coined the consoling reflection 
that: "The man who never makes mistakes never makes 
anything." 

Whether this book meets with success, lives many 
years, and is truly appreciated by those to whom it is in- 
scribed, is yet to be seen. Should it meet with approval 
and the sales be large the author will appreciate his efforts 
to the fullest extent, and at the same time listen to the 
trickle of a good steady income. 

DETERMINATION. 

Business is defined as designating any regular occu- 
pation, and two of the most important things for a young 
man just starting out in life to decide, is what will he do; 
what kind of business does he want to follow, and where 
will he settle? The former should be the first to be de- 
cided upon, as he may be inclined to pursue something that 
would necessitate change of home. This question, young 
man, you should thoroughly consider before your decision 
is made. Detect your capacities, if possible; try to compre- 



INTRODUCTORY 

hend your inclinations. If you have no desire to attend 
school or college — as some boys have not — then you must 
study some ti-ade. If you feel disposed to learn the barber 
trade and fully resolve to master it, then you have made a 
start. 

The world is full of barbers, and it is terribly crowded 
in places with those who claim to be workmen, but it is 
quite a large world and there is and always will be room 
for more proficient and enterprising barbers. 

Never have there been opportunities so plentiful and 
prospects so flattering as there are in these days of rush- 
ing, progressive Americanism; so if any young readers, 
Who are not already barbers, enter therein, let them go as 
thoroughly enducated for success as possible. 

Remember that you can be respectable, also an hon- 
ored member of society, without belonging to a learned 
profession. Some must be barbers, so it makes little dif- 
ference what you follow, if honorable and legitimate, so 
far as success is concerned, if you like it and find yourself 
adapted to it. 

"Honor and shame from no conditions rise; 
Act well your part, there all the honor lies." 

The barber business is an honorable one if fol- 
lowed with an honorable spirit; a barber may be a man of 
polished manners, and a millionaire a clown. 

We should all strive for honesty and politeness, as we 
are each individaully responsible for the ideas we cherish 
If we cultivate a high moral idea we will ever be on the 
progressive side, as the progress of the world is made by 
the compiling of individual ideas, and you may just as 
well seek to dam Niagara Falls with tissue paper as to 
stop the progress of civilization. 

The barbers make their business what it is. T Tis said, 
"There is but one road to success, and that road is merit." 
If your work is of a sloppy kind, merit is far away and will 
never find a resting place in your qualifications, for recog- 
nition. 

"The ability to do some one thing a little better than 
any one else can do it, is the golden key that unlocks the 
door of success." especially for the young man. The ear- 
lier in life you begin to regard your business in a serious 
manner, the sooner you will become proficient. The more 
elderly the men who become experts in this particular line 
of work late in life, have a great many disadvantages which 
youth does not have to contend with. In the first place, 
young men spend more money in the shop than old ones; 
second, there are more young men than old ones; third, a 
young man. if he is perfectly able to take care of it, makes 



INTRODUCTORY 

as determined an effort to secure custom he can pull more 
his way, for most young men prefer young workmen to 
serve them. 

One of the habits you should form, in your early course 
of training or practice, is the arrangement of all your ac- 
quired knowledge in a most exact order, and keep the ele- 
ments of progressive thought continually in your mind. 
Some one will say this is entirely too deep for a barber; so 
it is with the average knight of the razor; his own busi- 
ness is too deep for him, and many are the failures in all 
kinds of business because the bankrupts do not keep the 
gray matter in their heads working as they should. 

What causes cheap shops and poor service? 

Ignorance applies fairly well to both, when you leave a 
small difference between. Misfortune will often befall a 
workman or a boss barber who is moderately well ad- 
vanced in the practice and who is really a better man than 
should be working in a low shop. Still, if we look carefully 
over this individual's career, we can see where he has 
been "shy" in some capacity; he may be ever so energetic; 
he may have the manners and the ability to perform his 
work in a quick, neat and fascinating manner, but he may 
lack of confidence, he may not have the good judgment, 
possibly he has not read enough to post himself sufficiently 
to be interesting to the class of people who patronize these 
•Educated Barber Shops," or. worst of all, he may be an 
habitual drinker; bad habits are the result of ignor- 
ance, generally; few of us really knowing and believing the 
detriment they bring on us later in life. 

This work is to educate the barber that he may be 
enabled to perform his duties in an enchanting way; to fur- 
nish a shop comfortably and economically, and conduct it 
on the same basis. 

The barbers, as far as finances are concerned, have 
been somewhat short in the past, but their future is as good 
as any other's tradesman s. 

"Greatness is of slow growth and, should we wish to 
achieve it, all our spare time should be earnestly devoted 
to accomplishing some definite purpose, as we scarcely get 
into our real lives before the undertaker comes along and 
moves us out." 

If you are not the man you ought to be. blame nc 
other man; blame not heritage; you can blame no une but 
yourself, for there is no such thing as instantaneous wis- 
dom. 

To think and act properly is the correct foundation 
of good business, as well as sorial methods. Faith and 



INTRODUCTORY 



belief is necessary, but the real knowledge is still more so 
to accomplish any commercial undertaking. 

Science should be constantly in the minds of the bar- 
bers, for science is truth demonstrated. The theory of cor- 
rect barbering is a science, and the practice of it is an art. 

Character building begins in boyhood, and we are con- 
stantly building good or bad craracters — as others see it— 
•po if we devote all our spare time to the study of our own 
trade in a scientific way, we are training our faculties of 
common everyday sense up to that high state of perfection 
called evolution. "The scientific man merely uses his brain 
in a systematic way," while the majority of us are careless 
or neglectful. 

We should remember that: 

"Lives of great men all remind us. 

We can make our lives sublime 
And, departing, leave behind us, 

Footprints on the sands of time." 

Why bewail our fate and be continually wishing our- 
selves something else. No one in any separate line of busi- 
ness ever achieved any greatness, in that particular line, 
by wishing be wa.s in some other vocation. 



J. M. McCAMANT 



lilXilXMNC AS AN APPRENTICE. 

Most of the so-called colleges are detrimental instead 
of educational, because they start you wrong, and when a 
man or boy starts with the wrong- theory he must begin 
over, as errors accepted in boyhood or apprenticeship later 
become articles of faith and are not easily gotten rid of 
later in life. "If you start a chap Wrong he must be abso- 
lutely full of natural ability, courage and perseverance to 
ever overcome these cherished memories first impressed 
upon him." 

To learn, you should go to some well managed shop, 
where the proprietor's expenses are light; there you stand 
more show to serve an apprenticeship, for in the larger 
and more business-like places they seldom have the time 
to do you justice, should they admit you. Many boys begin 
by doing the porter work around the shop. Most barbers* 
will tell you they have done so (if they are honest.) 

By beginning this way it takes you longer, as there will 
be times that you could be doing barber work when you 
are compelled to do porter work; but if you haven't the 
means to pay one to teach you, then you must begin under 
(what seems to you as) difficulties; still they are not, as 
this porter act alone is a scientific one, and one which you 
will need experience in badly before you operate a large 
•shop. 

After you have found a place and formed an agree- 
ment with the proprietors, equip yourself with as good a 
set of tools as circumstances will allow, using your master's 
judgment and suggestions in purchasing them, always 
bearing in mind that the best is none too good, for many 
are the "ups and dowjis" of the workmen who have good 
tools, to say nothing of the bad* ones. Barbers will tell 
you that there will be times when your best razor will fail 
to work; this is true, of course it is. but why? Simply be- 
cause you do not understand how to sharpen it properly, 
or you do not know how to manipulate it after you get it 
sharp. Don't let any one make you believe that the razor 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



which cuts smooth and easy today, would not have cut 
Just as good yesterday because of some prognostication or 
some climatic condition; for it would have done the work, 
If you had had it in proper shape. Don't be suspicious 
about your tools; that is. don't imagine them worthless, es- 
pecially your most important tools (razors and shears); if 
you do, the chances are someone will get a good pair of 
shears or a good razor very cheap. If you suspect or have 
a slight opinion that your tools are worthless and 
throw them aside, without giving them a fair trial, 
you are very imprudent, yes, you are very foolish, for 
in mastering a balky razor or tool you gain one of 
the greatest victories you will ever gain, as long as 
you are a practicing mechanic. You should have 
unquestionable proof as to them failing to do the 
work; on the other hand, if you have tools that you 
know are not good ones, you are not only taxing your skill 
by trying to make them do the work, but you are wasting 
time and are apt to drive away custom. 

When you begin to shave a stranger, if your razor 
balks, the best thing for you to do is to pick up another, as 
some people are very suspicious and nervous; they do not 
like you to be trying a tool on their face. They may think 
that you have not had enough experience in the practical 
manipulation of barber machinery. They are afraid you 
nmy slip a cog somewhere or got a "hot box," and as then- 
ar** furnishing the face for you to work on, they want to 
think at least that you thoroughly understand your business. 
You must try to convince the public that you are a skilled 
workman- not by telling them that you have been work- 
ing at the trade for years ami that you have worked in 
some of the best shops in the country — for this they will 
know is not true, but by making a careful study of the 
wants of each and every customer and by keeping your 
business uppermost in your mind; by closely imitating your 
superiors. No one ever became proficient in this trade 
without first imitating, then originating. 

Often you will have to furnish gratis a good many 
little extras used in your work, when you are only paid 
for part of it. Sometimes you must courteously shave 
his neck, curl his mustache, clip the hair from over his 
ears and rub his scalp, until you begin to think your arm 1s 
h perpetual motion machine, and when he hands you the 
modest price of a shave alone, thank him politely, help 
hirn on with his coat, collar and tie, and ask him to call 
again. 

Did you ever know of an apprentice in any trade, or 
of a scholar of any profession who did not have to put up 
with a certain amount of intimidation? There sre always 
a few who arc so thoughtless ami ignorant, no matter how 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



hard you strive to please, as to abash and confuse you on 
the slightest cause. These are the agitators and small 
business men. small in every respect, and occasionally one 
who is large — in name only — who are so ravenous in a greed 
for riches that they often deny themselves the necessities 
of life, to accumulate a few more paltry pennies; these men. 
young man, will be found just as plentiful in the barber 
shop as in any other public business; they are of a class 
who generally shave themselves, or'patronize cheap shops, 
and they really believe that they have a special permit or 
paid-up license to kick. 

If you listen to these men you will nexev accomplish 
much for yourself. You should not listen to the dictates of 
an inexperienced man; that is, do not worry about their 
petty complaints; these men would rather you would not 
be educated, as they might be compelled to pay more for 
their shaves if all the barbers in their respective localities 
were educated barbers. 

These small men will suggest to you that you open up 
and conduct a cheap shop; they are afraid to visit the better 
class of shops, for by so doing they might imbibe extrav- 
agant ideas which would cause them to part with an extra 
"copper" or two. Pay no attention to the doubting, discour- 
aging class, as they are the ones who compose most of the 
failures and bankrupts. 

No great artists have ever been made nor great en- 
terprises ever completed by "Doubting Thomases"; neither 
can you accomplish or complete great good without sacri- 
fice. Still no sacrifices are too great after we have gone 
through them; so when you begin to learn the trade, stay 
with it until you master it. as you may be able to re r er back 
to it with pleasure, even should you become President. 

THE ESSENTIAL TOOLS AND THEIR PROPER CARE. 

Three good razors should always be kept, as .you might 
have an accident with one; then, as two are absolutely 
necessary, you would have just enough left. One is used 
for the first time over, then you should have a nice, light 
one to finish with; some men work with one alone, but this 
is not always practical, for some time is required to put 
one in order. This business of honing a razor be- 
tween every shave may be all ( right; but 
when a man has all the work he can 
possibly do, doesn't it seem more practical to keep a nice 
kit of razors, and keep them all working nicely? Two 
pairs of shears; would advise small or medium-sized ones. 
One pair of strong, free cutters, and a pair of trimmers. 

Two pairs of clippers; one pair known as No. l's, 
which eut hair about one-sixteenth of an inch long, and a 



MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE 



pair <»r small oiks, which cut it almost equal to shaving. 
in buying clippers choose the standard brands and keep a 
couple of extra springs, to use in case of breaking one- 
One good combination strop, with linen or cotton hose com- 
bination and a good smooth, clinging leather to finish tin- 
razor on. 

One shaving mug. large enough to hold a cake of Soap 
and make up a good supply of lather. One pair of needle- 
point tweezers. One hair brush. One lather brush, with 
good Ions bristles. One large comb, hand made, with round, 
pointed teeth, and as thin or fiat as it is practical to make it 
One small, thin finisher, and one tine comb, to use for dry 
shampoo. Two hones, one fast cutter, like a petrified 
hickory, and a swaty; if you are working with only one 
razor, use a ••dry" between every shave. One neck duster, 
one pair of mustache crimpers and a mustache curling 
iron, or a slate pencil is just as practical. One black-head 
spoon. One shear sharpen* r. One tool case or razor pocket. 
One eye shade. One eye protector. One clipper plate 
One nice, large hand mirror. Any workman who starts out 
to apply for a position should have a nice kit of tools, ami 
a good leather grip to carry them in. Don't he one of the 
notorious "globe trotters," and go about the world with 
an old "hook" and SWaty in your pocket and expect people 
to look up to you. 

A good tool is entitled to fair treatment, and if so 
treated will make a satisfactory return to its owner in long 
and faithful service. Where is the man who does not ap- 
preciate a good tool, and yet. how many are there who 
do not neglect their tools more or less? How many work- 
men will ever think of oiling their shears or clippers until 
they begin to creak. <>r until the customer reminds them 
that they need it? 

RAZORS. 

A common failing among razors outside of having poor 
Steel in them, is that the blades do not fit in the handles 
perfectly, and you are constantly shutting them down on 
the handles and nicking the point or edge of the hlade. 
This can he remedied, to a certain extent, by binding one 
side of the handle near the shank with thread: this throws 
the blade more to the center of the handle. 

Tortoise shell or horn handles are apt to warp: this 
defect can he remedied by soaking in hot water until they 
become pliant, then drying in a vise, so they dry straight. 
These handles are affected by water, and if left in a damp 
place, or with drops of water cm them, they soon become 
si a ly, crack and split. 

The study of the razor is one that is well worth the 
time to any one who shaves himself, as well as to the ap- 



MACKS BARBERS' GUIDE 



prentice, and the good barber can tell you much about them 
you never thought of. 

Keeping a razor sharp is one of the first steps toward 
making a good workman, and it is one of the first things 
you do when beginning to serve apprenticeship — hone 
razors. 

There are hundreds of barbers who have a light touch 
and they understand tough beards and tender skins, but 
they are not good shavers, for the reason that they cannot 
keep their razors in shape. They have not gotten onto the 
knack of putting an edge on a razor, or sharpening a pair 
of shears, and it is something that seems impossible for 
them to learn. 

Quite often you may neglect drying your razors thor- 
oughly, and the consequence is rusty blades, "not the red 
rust." but a kind of invisible corrosion, that you could 
plainly see with a good magnifying glass. Water or damp- 
ness has a tendency to eat away the polished edge. When 
you take it up hastily to strop it, you damage your strop, 
for corrosion is not a good filling for a razor strop. If 
one becomes rusty or corrodes so you can see it plainly, 
take a fine emery flour and polish thoroughly. 

Another cause of razors failing to hold an edge is the 
shape in which they are ground; defective grind, imper- 
fect shank, poor shape and a poor bevel are all things 
worth learning to detect the moment you pick up a razor. 
A straight, true bevel, perfect shank, and a full concave 
grind, will enable you to procure a smooth, even edge 
quickly. Some barbers say that razors are refractory 
things, and that they have their off days and fail to work 
from unknown causes. So they do, but is it the razor or 
the manipulator? 

When a razor begins acting badly, it is laid aside until 
the barber has a little spare time, then he takes it in hand; 
usually it can be put in shape in a short time, but some- 
times you cannot make them work as they should without 
exercising quite a bit of patience, or, as workmen sny. 
they need coaxing. 

The edge of an over-honed razor, if examined through 
a powerful magnifying glass, will show small serrations, as 
in figure No. 1. These are caused by the hone being rough 




Figure No-. 1. 



MACK'S BARBERS' Gl IDE 



and cutting fast, although there are few razors that are 
keen and sharp and cut freely that are entirely without 
lhe.se miniature teeth, if it is so rough that stropping will 
not remove most of the teeth and most of the roughness; 
then it must he worked down on some kind of a hone until 
smooth. 

The most effectual way to remove this roughness is to 
lay the razor flat on the hone and draw it straight acrosi 
it. as in Figs. Nos. 2 and 3. then proceed t,> hone it lightly, 




figures Nos. 2 and 3. 

for fear you overhone it again. There are barbers who 
have worked for years in the business in one place, who 
are working in second-class shops, and they have little or 
no work to do, simply because they cannot sharpen a razor 
and keep it sharp. 

There is a right and a wrong way to sharpen tools. If 
you were going to sharpen a butcher knife to cut meat 
with, you would not use the same stone that you would 
for a razor, for they are two separate tools and are used 
for separate and distinct purposes; still ninety-nine people 
out of every hundred, who never saw a razor honed, would 
use the same stone and the same movement to sharpen the 
razor that they would use for the knife, and vice versa. 
Barbers, did you ever have a razor that would cut fairly 
well as long as you kept one side next to the face ami 
Shaved in one dire< tion. but as soon as you would turn it 
over it would fail to work? This is caused by the teeth 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



being in opposite direction in point of slant to the beard, 
thus making- it difficult to cut; besides, it must be smooth 
to cut good. 

Shaving is a very refined way of planing or sawing, 
and many are the motions made by the expert shaver as he 
glides over pimples, moles and "soup-bone" faces"; he can 
put the razor down on the face quickly, with the edge right 
against your skin, still it doesn't cut you, or go into the 
skin, just glides over; he can, by stretching the skin tight 
with one hand, make one stroke on your face with a razor 
and remove many whiskers without hurting you, while the 
inexperienced man would cut a steak out, or puncture an 
artery. 

The precise man, who wants the razor just so, may 
leave your shop disgusted on account of bad tools; so 
strive hard to keep them in perfect shape at all times. 

RAZOR HONING. 

First, lather the hone well with a creamy lather, then 
place the razor on the hone, laying it perfectly fiat, at- 
shown in Fig. 4; then the blade should be drawn forward 
against the edge, heel first, as in Fig 5; this finishes the 




Figures 4 and 5 

first stroke. Now turn the razor on it 
into position for the backward stroke, as 



back and slide it 
~'n Fig, 6, being 




Figure 6 



MACKS BARBERS' GUIDE 



careful to place same in position before you lay it flat on 
the hone. Push the blade backwards from heel to point 
against the edge and finish the stroke, as in Fig. 7. 




Figure 7 

These two motions, when properly executed practically 
constitute honing; there is really more than two motions, 
but to the inexperienced hand they all look somewhat the 
same. Hone this way until the razor is free of nicks and 
has a smooth edge or bevel. This may be known by feeling 
of it with a moistened finger, or by drawing it across the 
moistened finger nail, at the same time helping to remove 
the wire edge, formed by honing. 

This rough, serrated edge is quite difficult to overcome 
by some apprentices, as their sense of feeling is not acute 
enough to tell when the blade is honed sufficiently. 

There are several ways to remove this roughness, how- 
ever, and if you have had trouble along these lines, re- 
member that stropping alone will not remove it; you may 
strop until you are vexed, but the wire edge still remains, 
unless you strop the edge off altogether, which can easily 
be done by stropping heavily on a canvas strop, not 
stretched tight. To remove it, place the razor on the hone, 
as in Figs. 2 and 3. ami pull straight across the hone, turn- 
ing each side flat to the hone; this method will not only 
take roughness of, but will turn the edge to a certain ex- 
tent; then you must rehone it a couple of strokes each way, 
very lightly; if this fails to smooth it up, draw it across 
the strop same as on finger nail; also strop it on a loose 
strop; then, when all else fails, strop it hack side up a time 
or two, being very cartful not to serape the strop with the 
edge <>r tin- blade. 

REMEMBER THIS IX HONING. 

The blade, edge and back must be kept flat upon the 
hone, and the blade must be honed against the edge from 
heel to point, as shown in the cuts, the heel always being in 
advance of the point. 

A tine blade in good condition is more sensitive than 
:i violin strung under hisrh tension, and utmost care should 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



fce taken with it. If it is ground properly, it will need but 
little honing or stropping. 

RAZOR STROPPING. 

To strop a razor, fasten your strop to something solid 
«nd stretch it tight; now place the blade on the strop, as 
shown in Fig. 8, with the edge pointing away from you, 




Figure 8 

•draw the blade toward you, always keeping the heel slightly 
in advance of the point; when the end of the strop is 
reached (Fig. 9) turn the blade, back downward, until the 




Figure 9 



It) 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUI0£ 



unstropped side comes in contact with the strop, then push 
the blade from you, as shown in Figs, 10, 11, keeping the 




Figure 10 




Figu 



heel slightly in advance; continue this process until it has 1 
a smooth edge, which in time you can detect by trying the 
edge on your moistened finger or by clipping fine hairs. 
Remember to keep the strop tight; place the blade flat 
on the strop and maintain the same angle as much as pos- 
sible. To sharpen the point of the razor, pull it off the 
edge of the strop a time or two, as in Figs. 12, 13. Before 
putting your razor away, you should strop it until sharp, 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



II 




Figure 12 




Figure 13 

and wipe dry With H cloth or towel; this leaves it in perfect 
shape; should you wish to shave some one who is in a 



\Z MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



hurry, all you must do is to lather properly and go t<> 
work. 

STROPS. 

When a man has a good strop, too much care cannot 
be taken to keep from cutting- or twisting it out of shape, 
or until you break the grain. 

'I here is a difference in strops and straps. A man 
may sell you a good strap and all you could use it for 




Figure 14 

would be to tie up a horse, or for a similar purpose; but 
if you purchase a good razor strop, one that is made of a 
hide tanned and dressed for strop purposes, and finished 
by practieal strop manufacturers, who put each one 
tli rough a special scientific process, you have an important 
part of your necessary equipment. 

The old-time Russia leather, which at one time was 
a leader, is still a good strop, and if properly filled and 
worked down, there is no better. Until late years Russia 
leather was, or was thought to be, the best dressed and 
prepared leather for razor strops, but these strops have, 
most of the time, been put on the market in a shape not 
ctly ready for instant use, Take a Russia leather just 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 13 



fiom the dealer, use it without any soaping, or before 
working it down, and it will seldom give the satisfaction 
many other kinds give, because it is not fully prepared. 

When a strop manufacturer finishes a high grade .strop 
nowadays it is ready for immediate use; just fasten it to 
something and rub the dust off, then go to work. It does 
the work all O. K. after they put it through the pr 
now employed by them. Xo strop will stand constant usage 
and retain its smooth, clinging surface without occasionally 
applying something to preserve it. Most of the barber 
supply houses have liquid, paste or powder preparations, 
some of which possess merit, but some that not only lack 
merit but are detrimental. Beeswax, paraffine, charred 
paper, soap and other materials are used; any of these 
mentioned above being good when properly applied. 

The following are good hints for those who have trou- 
ble with strops: If a strop becomes too slick and the sur- 
face is extremely shiny, it needs cleaning and working 
pver. Tak»> a wet towel and wash off thoroughly, dry with 
dry towel: if it has a porous or rough appearance, it is 




Hgure 15 

ready for the filling, but if it has not, let it dry out, I 
you ran feel as well as see that the leather will take the 
filling. Beeswax or paraffine should be ironed in with an 



14 



MACKS BARBERS' GUIDE 



iron just warm enough to melt the wax, and it should be 
applied very sparingly. The strop must be laid flat on a 
solid table or board and ironed as you would clothes; be 
careful not to have the iron too hot. 

Charred paper is a good filling', the only drawback to 
it is tnat it is so dirty; burn a piece of ordinary newspaper 




Figure 16 

ami mix just enough stiff lather to keep it from dying away 
in dust, then apply to the strop, rubbing it in and spread- 
ing it over your strop with the back of your hand, giving 
it time to dry slightly before stropping your razor, so you 
will not rub all the filling out. Rich, creamy lather is one 
of the best strop dressings when applied in this way; when 
going off duty for an hour or so. or at night before leaving 
work, rub your strop clean and apply rich lather, letting it 
dry on the strop; in the morning rub off all particles of dry 
lather with hand or dry towel, and if it seems too spongy 
dampen your hand, pick up your chunk of alum and rub 
your strop briskly with your hand after handling alum. 
This treatment causes the good, clinging surface so im- 
portant to give the razor a smooth, silky edge. 

Treat canvas or linen strops about the same as leather, 
the only difference in them being the amount of filling they 
take and the shape in which they take it. A 'doth strop Is 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



15 



for the purpose of removing roughness, as any one could 
see by results obtained from using them, if they would use 
a good magnifying glass. In using a canvas strop after 
honing a razor, remember that every time you use it you 
produce a more rounding edge on your razor, and that you 
are not making it keen but smooth, especially if you strop 
heavily. Do not try to work with cold hands and cold 
tools. No doubt you have tried to work when your hands, 
razor and strops were all cold. The hand should be warm 
and moist, and to do nice work the strops should not be 
cold. Before stropping your razor on a cold morning, rub 
up your strop with the back of your hand until the surface 
Ceels warmed up by the friction, then notice how your razor 
clings to it. 

Do not buy a pearl-handled razor and a cheap strop 
and expect the razor to shave nicely, stropped on a poor 
strop, whether it is a good razor or not. Some workmen 




Figure 17 



work with their razors direct from the canvas and keep 
them in good shape, 

SHEARS. 

If" shears are n<>i balanced perfectly they wear consid- 
erably before they call for oil. The more they wear the 



16 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



sooner you will be compelled to purchase now nni s. Oif 
of some kind is constantly within your reach, and as it i^ 
so essential to good cutting shears, don't wait for the cus- 
tomer to remind you, but keep them well lubricated. To 




Figure 11 



make them hi better, to make them easier and to protect 
your finger from callouses use the rubber shear pads. Som< 
practice is required to learn to sharpen them nicely, so 
it you have always had your shears ground by some one 
else and have never learned to sharpen them yourself, you 
have not yet finished your apprenticeship and should begin 
at <>nce to study this. A 'machine that will last a lifetimc 
only costs a dollar or two. and it pays for itself in a 
month's time where there are two or more barbers to 
use it. 

To secure a good, lasting edge, sharpen them with the 
same bevel from point to crotch, and after you have ground 
a smooth, lasting edge on them, if they fail to cut good, 
they are not adjusted right or the blades have not enough 
concave to them. i. e. they do not close together on the 
edge properly. Bend the blades just a little toward each 
other. If from wear tney fail to close at the point, bend 
the handles outward so they do not touch; if this does not 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



'7 



suflk-e, file them out at the shank. Care must be taken in 
bending- them. as. they are easily broken and only a little 
bending is necessary'. 

BRUSHES. 

Hair brushes should never be forced tog-ether, as this 
spreads the bristles, and when once the bristle knots are 
broken, or the bristles are once bent out of shape near the 
wood, they soon become limber. In selecting brushes, pick 
those with the bristles set in straight lines, so they will 
be easily kept clean. A good hair brush, like any other 
good tool, is entitled to the best of treatment, and if so 
treated will make a "hit" with every customer you use it 
on. Never put your hair brush in hot water, for in time 
it will ruin the handle and back of it; use ammonia and 
cold or warm water and ordinary soap; alter washing then? 
put in a warm place to dry thoroughly before using. A wet 




Figure 19 

hair brush will not shed the dirt and scurf like a dry one. 
but rather has a tendency to collect it; so dry them thor- 
oughly. In the evening before leaving work is the time 



18 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



to wash the brush, so it will be clean and dry for the next 
day's work. 

LATHERING. 

It has been said that when you lather properly you 
are half through with the shave, but you are not, you 
have only lathered, that's all. Any boy fifteen years of 




Figure 20 

ai;e, who" has good common sense, can by studying- diligent- 
ly, learn to lather correctly in two weeks' time; still there 
aro many workmen who do not lather one-tenth of their 
patrons as they should; not because they do not know how, 
for most any barber knows, but they are just careless. 
There are many men, no doubt, who could shave themselves 
nicely if they only knew how, and would hither their faces 
properly. 

First. Tuck the towel around your customer's neck 
carefully, so that his clothing will be protected. 

Second. If the face is dusty or dirty and the beard is 
stiff and dry, use a damp towel to wipe the face off and 
moisten the skin. Use water the temperature to suit 
the patron and. if he likes, lay the towel over his eyes and 
forehead while you make your lather. 

Third. Rinse your shaving cup and brush thoroughly 



MACKS BARBERS GUIDE 



19 



with cold or warm but not too hot water, leaving just about 
as much water, in the lather brush as the bristles will con- 
tain without squeezing or pressing; rub your brush up and 
down and around on your soap until you produce a thick, 
creamy lather. 

Fourth, Lather the face with the brush, working the 
lather all off of it onto the face; now change the brush to 
the other hand, and hold it until you rub the bearded face 
with your naked hand and fingers, working the lather well 
down to the roots of the beard; after you have rubbed it 
thoroughly, take the brush back into the other hand, and 
finish by smoothing the lather out evenly, over the entire 
to be shaved; be careful not to lather the ears, ryes, 
nose and rr.outh. 

Shaving soaps differ; some soaps will work up a lather 
by just givir.^ the wet brush a few turns on it. then apply 




Figure 21 

t<> the face and work: others are used to a better advan- 
tage by mixing the lather in the mug - before applying. 



SHAVING. 

Having studied the theory "f h 



ming. stropping and 



20 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



lathering, you now take up the most difficult of all parts of 
the trade, shaving. 

The particulars in the art of shaving can no more be 
explained by writing than you could explain the technicali- 
ties of music to an inexperienced person, but rules can be 




Figure 22 

given which are so precise that if the apprentice follows 
them in every detail he will improve rapidly. While lath- 
ering is not shaving a man. it is absolutely imperative to 
lather properly before beginning to shave, in order to d< 

nice work with the razor. 

Have your razor in good order and. holding it in one 
hand, you take the first two fingers of the other hand 
and wipe the lather from the hair at the temples, and 
from in front of the ears; this shows you where to begin 
and prevents you cutting the skin which in front of some 
men's ears is a little wrinkled. On most of faces you can 
shave from the temples to the lower edge of the jawbone. 
in long, easy strokes, as in Fig. 14, then turn the razor 
over, never using but one hand to turn it with, and shave 
to the point of the chin, lifting up the mustache, where 
there is one, and shave under it. Fig. 15. Now turn your 
razor back in former position and shave as far down under 
the jawbone as the beard grows down. Fig. 1 (! : then 
change 1 position, getting more behind your customer, and 
shave up, as in Fig. 17. only this shows the left side of the 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDI 



>\ 



face. Y<>u now have your man half shaved, once over. 
Strop your razor a few strokes and take the lather brush, 
relathering the unshaved side in soots where it needs it. 
Now, standing over or behind your customer, you shave in 
long, smooth strokes, holding the razor, as in Fig. 18; 
shave this way as far down on the face as it is convenient, 
then change back to the original position and shave down 
around the point of the chin, as in Fig. 19; now turn the 
load with chin toward you, and holding the razor in posi- 
tion, as Fig. 2 0, shave as far as the beard grows in that 
direction; then change and shave up again, as in Fig 17. 
To shave the chin, place the thumb and forefinger of one 
hand firmly over the chin, and by a simple movement of 
the wrist and forefinger of the hand you hold the razor in, 
shave lightly, yet keep the razor firmly against the chin, 
especially where the beard is tough or stiff. The last part 
of the face to shave is just under the lower lip, and to do 
this properly, the chin should be shaved smooth and clean 




Figure 23 

of lather first. Standing behind the customer, place the 
forefinger of one hand firmly over the chin, press down 
and shave up at the same time, as in Fig. 21. You now 
have the whiskers off, so wash off all soap thoroughly be 



12 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



fore shaving second time over, If the man wants a close 
Shave, give it to him, but do not shave directly against the 
grain, unless he wants a very close shave, and then only 
the second time over. 

Never shave the face dry. Keep it moist with Water all the 
time you afe shaving, and to shave extremely close, pull up 
the skin in rolls and shave only a little at a time, very 
lightly. The first time over always guide the razor in the 
direction of the growth of the board, and lay the blade as 
Hat on the face as you can, for the more you change from 
this, the more you scrape the skin. 

During busy times a good barber will give the ordinary 
man a good shave in ten minutes' time and turn him out of! 
his chair; but in no other trade is there so much medi- 
ocrity as in that of the barber, and where you find one 
good one you Will find ten of the ordinary ones who are 
not .so good. From a mechanical point of view as much 
may !>.• said about other craftsmen, but as people do not 




Figure 24 

come into such intimate personal contact with them a9 
they do with barbers, it is difficult to judge them as ac- 
curately. Tt is not all in the lathering and rubbing it in; 



MACKS BARBERS' GUfDE 



23 



some .workmen put in an incredibly long time lathering' 
and stropping- the razor, then spoil the shave by using it 
like a hack saw. Few have the gift of the long, scooping, 
yet light and sure stroke of the blade, that we s<> rarely 




Figure 25 



meet and that most everyone enjoys. It seems like dip* 
ping off whiskers with a spoon When one of these workmen 
shaves you. 

HAIR CUTTING. 

The theory of proper hair cutting is almost as difficult 
to explain in print as to describe shaving in a scientific 
manner. 

Hair cutting is an art, and it can only be practiced 
correctly by those who combine good taste and judgment 
with mechanical skill and liberal art necessary for the ap- 
plication of its principles, to the deversified form of the 
head. 

Studying the rules in this book, and closely observing 
the figures, cuts and plates herein will prove verv beneficial 



^4 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



to those apprentices who are striving to reach the front in 
the art of' hair cutting. 

First. To do this correctly you must begin by pro- 
tecting the neck properly, so as to avoid the unpleasantness 
of letting the loose hair get down around your customer's 
neck, and this can best be overcome by using the rubber 
neck bib (made especially for that purpose) or by securely 
fastening the hair cloth. Cotton is used by some, and in 
trimming the beard it is very nice. In warm weather, if 
the customer's neck is damp with perspiration, use a little 
powder; this prevents the cut hair from sticking to the 
skin. 

Second. Carefully survey the head before starting to 
cut; that is, run the comb through the hair and put it in 
the usual order, raising the hair, at the same time noticing 
for scars and unevenness of the scalp, as in Fig. 2 2. Thin 
spots in the hair, cowlicks and general outline of the head. 




Figure 26 

Ask your patron how he wants it cut, and a4 the same time 
form an idea as to the most becoming style or way of cut- 
ting it, to look best on him and to do yourself the most 
credit. This examination only takes a few moments' time, 
which are saved many times over by knowing what- and 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



25 



where to cut. You can then rush on and cut hair without 
feeling your way. 

Ihird. Should there be a bad scar on any part of the 




Figure 27 

head, ALWAYS cut this part first, then cut the other to 
o-ni'iespond. 

Fourth. The hair in front of the ear should never be 
cut so high as to show the end of the cheekbone, especially 
if it is prominent or the temple recedes or appears to 
be hollow, as in Fig. 23. 

This should be square, as in Fig. 2 8, although some 
wear it pointed, and on some heads it looks about as we!' 

Fifth. It is poor taste to cut the hair shorter in front 
than elsewhere, or to trim or cut it high up at the back of 
the neck; it should be left down an inch or two below the 
bottom of the ears; this is to be determined by the length 
of the neck. On broad necks it should be cut round or 
somewhat oval, as in Fig. 2 4, and never square, or too high, 
as in 25, but on small, thin necks it should be cut fuller at 
the sides to broaden the looks of the neck. A pointed, 
round shape lengthens the appearance of a short, thick 



26 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



nock, while a less pointed or more round shape broadens 
the looks of it. 

Sixth. The hair when worn short, should not be left 
too blunt at the edges. When the neck is shaved round or 
down the sides a short hair cut should be almost feather- 
edged, as in Figs. 27 or 28. This feather-edging gives it a 
finished appearance; while the abrupt, defined line is sug- 
gestive of the old traditional pot cut. 

Seventh. On broad foreheads the hair should not be 
worn too long or heavy, and the artistic hair cutter — -when 
he has his way— always cuts to improve the appearance of 
the shape of the head by leaving the hair full over the parts 
of the head lacking fullness, and by cutting it short or thin- 




Figure 28 

ning it out on the over-developed portion, as this gives 
the head an even -and well-rounded contour, as In Fig. 22. 

WORTH REMEMBERING. 

A large or perfect-shaped head generally looks nice 
with a medium or short hair out. Fis;s. 27 and 2S; while an 



MACK'S BARBERS" GUIDE 



27 



extremely small or irregular shaped one should be covered 
with long hair, as in Fig. 2 9, and kept trimmed often. 

If your light is poor, turn your chair so as to get the 
most light. Begin by holding your comb in your left hand, 




Figure 29 

pushing it through the hair from the temple up, beginning 
to cut slowly at the bottom and cut faster as you raise the 
comb. If the comb does not take the hair well, use the 
shears, as in Fig. 2 6, and push the hair down through the 
comb teeth as you cut. Use the same method all around 
the bottom, cutting the least on heads you wish to leave 
the fullest. 

There is science even in the close clipper cut, and to do 
this properly, start the clipper at the bottom and work 
the handles fast, pushing the machine slowly upward. 
Where the hair lays close to the head always push them 
against the hair, i. e. against the way it grows. 

Do not try to cut a full swath, but about one-half a 
swath each time; by so doing you run the clippers over the 
entire head twice, and when you have done this there will 
be no long, straggling hair left. Often when you have to 
cut a head of hair with the shears that is dry and fluffy it 
saves time to dampen it before cutting, and if the customer 



28 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



does u<n warn it wet, just take a damp towel and suggest 
that you wipe off the dust before you begin. 

Plates Nos. 29 and 30 show long hair as worn by many 
preachers, lecturers, musicians, actors and other profes- 
sional men. Plate No. 29 shows straight hair, and 30 de- 
eidedly curly hair, both being "full cuts.' This style should 
be left fr<»m three and a half to five inches long- over the 
front and lop of the head and trimmed medium short 
around the edges. It may be parted on the side or in the 
center, usually in the center on broad heads, and is gen- 
erally worn long enough to nearly touch the collar. No, 
2 9 shows it below the top of the extremely high shirt col- 
lar, while 30 looks ju.si a little high, but is not. for the 
wearer has a low collar, a long neck and a much higher 
crown than 29, Often you will see a head with two crowns, 
and If tin- hair is md bristle-like, it will be very 

difficult for tin- barber to keep it looking right around the 
crown. You should usually go to the extremes when cut- 
ting such hair, either extremely shorl or leave it very long, 




Figure 30 



so the weight of it will hold the orown hair down with the 
other, 

"Dutch ruts'' are for little hoys and gipis from the age 
of two to ten years, Part the hair In the center, comb out 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



29 



perfectly straight and bob it off as evenly as possible all 
the way around, leaving it from half to an inch below the 
bottom of the ears. 

BEARD TRIMMING. 

Some men have such tough, wiry beards and tender 
Skins that they let their beards grow to keep from shaving- 
others have facial defects and wear boards to hid*- the 




Figure 31 



scars, or to cover up an uneven face, while some wear 
beards in a great many different ways to improve their 
looks. Some men look much better with a beard than 
without it if the beard is trimmed and shaped to harmonize 
with their hair and features. People generally notice your 
face before they glance at your head, so if you wear one in 
any shape, have the proper '-are taken of it. Knowing how 
to do a thing and doing it, are two different things, but 
when you find a man who really knows how to trim beards, 
if you give him a chance he will generally fix you up most 



JO 



MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE 



becomingly, for he must adv-erti.se his business by improv- 
ing your looks. 

SUGGESTIONS AND RULES FOR TRIMMING BEARD. 

First. On a round, full face, as in Figs. 31 or 34, the 

I should be trimmed close on the temples and side of 

th< i . and left quite long on the chin. The hair should 

l. s.i ,! on the side of the bead and roached up, as 

cut No. 34 shows, to lengthen the appearance of the hea I 

ace. 

Second. This style is quite hard to become accustomed 

to, but once worn by a man with a head sha] ed as t lis one 

• 1 ii\ wearing 

• is quite promine it and his temples 

- full at I u the ar- 

somewhat hollow 

gth to bru h down 

over th( and trim the 




Figure 32 

beard, as shown in the cut with full side whisk -r:-. to brush 



Third. 



with a full beard, as 
A broad forehead and a long pointed chin, as 



back from the clean shaven chin, 
in Fig. 3" 



MAOCS BARBERS' GUIDE 



31 



in Fig. 32. can be remedied to a certain extent by cutting 
the hair short and brushing it flat, as shown in the cut. 
Leave the beard full on the sides and cut it short on the 
chin. See by Figure 33 what a hideous sight one makes 




Figure 33 



by trying to wear a roach and a pointed chin beard, instead 
of wearing it cut as in Figure 32. The face looks too long, 
and is a fine specimen for a good cartoonist. Fig. 31.) 

Fourth. This plate shows a beard trimmed "Vandyke." 
The neck and cheeks, when the beard grows thick and 
high up on the cheeks, is either clipped with the c'ose clip- 
pers or shaven; it can be clipped on the side of the face 
with the long or close clippers, and the chin is trimmed 
with the shears to a very sharp or rounding point. If you 
shave the neck and cheeks the customer is more apt to 
come often, which will help you, as the Vandyke should be 
trimmed every ten days at least. The Vandyke may be 
trimmed shorter and more sparingly than the cut shows, 
this to be determined by the shape of the chin and the 
thickness of the beard. (Fig. 32.) 

Fifth. This shows a 'Full Beard," and may be worn 
with or without a mustache, it all depends on the features 



J2 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



of the wearer. Cut the beard on the temples short enough 
to harmonize with the fullness of the face; trim the end to 
a point, either round or sharp, to suit the patron's fancy, 
and comb the hair flat or up just a little in front, then over 
and back. (Fig. 23.) 

Sixth. This is known as "Side Whiskers," and 
looks pretty well on long, thin faces, especially where the 
wearer has a well proportioned head and wears his hair 
cut short, or where his temples recede and his lace is long. 

This is the old but stylish "Full Side Whiskers." They 
are rather bushy, but look well on tall nun who take good 
pnr« /-if them. The h^arri is allowed to Krow from rue rem- 
V-oj to the corner ot the mouth, ami is* trimmed to a snarp 
point on each side; the chin is shaven straight down, also 
the neck, the neck being shaved a little Wider than the 
chin. No. 23 is shown in a wood cut instead of a half- 




Figure 34 



tone, so as to give the apprentice an idea about cutting the 

hair and trimming the beard properly around the temples. 

Eighth. This shows the •■Imperial" (or goatee), which 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 33 



dot s not look good on many without a mustache to go with 
It. and it should be worn a little wider than a mustache and 
trimmed on the end about like the end of the mustache, so 
it corresponds. Never twist it up tight. 

Xo. 33. Shows a peculiar French and Russian slyle 
of a parted pompadour. It does not look well to many 
Americans, still some foreigners like it. Cut it reasonably 




short on the Sides and part it in a half circle after (lamp 
ening or rubbing pomade in it. Comb it to the front over 
the temples, as cut shows, straight down or back. 

First. Comb and brush the beard and mustache until 
all the tangles are out of it, and unless the patron has his 
particular way of having it trimmed, observe these rules 
and note the illustrations, as they will help you. 

When the chin beard is worn long, and that on the side 
of the face is cut short, it should be trimmed a gradual 
length, from the bottom of the ear to the longest point at 
the end of the chin, so as to avoid the appearance of a 
chin beard and a newly grown ".Side Whiskers." 

In trimming the beard long or medium, with few ex- 
ceptions, below the cars and under the jaw should be 



M 



MACK'S BARBERS' GLIDE 



trimmed rather close, to avoid a bushy look; and the lower 
down the neck the closer it should be cut. 

The beard and hair should blend together at the tern- 
jples and never be disconnected, as this, too, leaves the ap- 
pearance of a blunt edge, or a botched job. It looks as 
if the workman had cut the hair with the intention of 
shaving the face and had later decided to trim the beard. 

When the beard grows thick or of a darker shade on 
the chin, and it grows thin or of a lighter shade on the side 
of the face, do not trim it too close over the light part, for 
't will not harmonize, and you will show defects, should 
there be any. 

MIST ACHE TRIMMING. 

A mustache, properly taken care of, improves the looks 
of a great many men, as homely mouths, bad teeth, thick, 
ugly lips and peculiarly shaped noses are hidden, to a cer- 
tain extent, by a nice mustache. If a patrons asks you to 




Figure 36 



trim and dress his mustache and use your own judgment 
as to how it looks, here are a few things to remember: 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



35 



Do not cut it too square at the bottom — "broom fash- 
ion" — for few men look decent in this kind of a cut. 

Do net cut it short over the mouth, and leave the ends 
extremely long — "Chinese fashion." 

Do not cut the outer ends too short, and leave it longer 
over the mouth, so that it looks more like a goatee than a 
mustache. 

A well defined mouth is bow-shaped, and where a man 
who has good features wears a mustache just to be wearing 




Figure 37 

it. and not to cover up defects, his mustache Should be 
trimmed evenly from the center to the ends, so as to har- 
monize with his features. 

Avoid artificial appearances as much as possible, and 
do not leave it rolled up so tight that it looks as if the end 
of it was glued up in a knot. 

After rolling or curling thp mustache, anply some kind 
of brilliantine and comb it out in an easy natural way. 



SINGEING. 

Singeing is beneficial in some cases where the hair is 
brittle and dry and splits on the ends. By singeing it you 



% MACK'S BARBERS 1 GUiDE 



Bear the ends and stop the nourishing- fluid from running 
out. 

When a hair is in a healthy state the end is closed up, 
and when dry and unhealthy it splits. The fluid which nour- 
ishes it should ooze out all along from the roots to the 
end of it. 

In singeing the hair, the most important part is to 
singe each hair just a little. First, it should be cut just 
the desired length; then take up your taper, light it and, 
holding it with one hand, and the comb in the other, be^ 
gin to singe. 

After you have singed the hair, take a piece of paper 
in each hand and rub briskly over the head to remove the 
parts of the hair which is charred <>r burnt too much. 

Some apprentices, when singeing the hair, will in- 
variably burn it toe much in one place, as they let the taper 
stay tot. limy in one pla ;e. You should keep the taper 
moving all the time, as well as the comb. 

Do not try to singe the hair just after applying tonic, 
for some of it contains So much alcohol that you arc apt 
to s.t the hair afire, unless you have had experience and 
can work rapidly. Always singe before shampooing or ap- 
plying tonic. 

SHAMPOOING. 

A good shampoo once a month is not a day too often 
for anyone; some people wash their hair oftener than that, 
nut some never wash it until they begin to wonder why 
thej have dandruff, falling hair and the like; then the bar- 
ber or someone else reminds them that they will lose all 
their bail-, so they decide to clean up. 

Good shampoo is better for the hair than most soaps, 
as most of the soap made contains too much lye. Shampoo 
,s put on the market in various forms, liquids, powders, 
jellies atid pastes. They can be made either way, so the.N 
do the work effectively; although in some forms thev work 
up faster than in other's. Thev are anplied to the hair 
witn water, and vigorous rubbing is necessary to remove 
all din ami scalp accumulations. 

DIRECTIONS FOR GIVING SHAMPOO. 

First. Fasten the shampoo cloth — a rubberized cloth — * 
around your customer's neck, then taking: Up a face towel, 
catch one corner of it with your right hand and the ex- 
treme corner from that, with the left, give it a twist, mak-* 
ing a small roll of it; tie this around the neck in a single 
knot, to obsorb all water or shampoo which may run down 
from the hair. 

Second. Apply the shampoo, or water either, one at 
a time, rubbing fast until you produce a lather all over the 



MACK'S BARBER5' GUIDE 37 

head; take the shampoo brush and brush all about the roots 
of the hair, working the lather down well onto the scalp, 
after you have loosened the dirt up; scoop or rub off Ihe 
bulk of the lather into your left hand, then wash it off in 
the basin. To be sure of a good job, take your comb and 
comb through the hair from forehead straight back to the 
base of the head. Examine, and if all the scurf is not 
loosened, apply more shampoo and work until you loosen 
it up. 

Third. Now comes the rinsing act. Call the patron 
over to the wash basin, and while regulating the tempera- 
ture of the water, ask him to have a seat on the shampoo 
stool. Rinse his hair thoroughly, scratching it lightly with 
one hand and applying water with the other. Dry the hair 
well enough so the water will not run down on the face 
before asking him to go back to the chair; then dry his 
hair as much as he wishes, using a fan if you have no 
compressed air or patent hair dryer. The removal of ah 
shampoo from the hair, by rinsing with soft water, is es- 
sential. 

Fresh eggs make a nice shampoo. To give it properly, 
crack the end of the egg enough to let out just a little at 
a time — for if you try to rub it all on at once, part of it 
will get away — and apply, rubbing the whole of the egg 
Into the hair. 

To give an egg shampoo properly, use the shampoo 
hood, or take the customer to the basin and apply the eggs 
as he holds his head over the basin; this way you are handy 
to the water. 

When applying water or shampoo, or other liquids, to 
the hair, rub the head briskly at the same time you are 
applying the lotion to keep it from running off; this is a 
difficult movement for the beginner, as he is inclined to 
hold one hand still, while he uses the other; if he wishes 
to practice this movement let him go in the back room and 
practice rubbing his head with one hand and patting his 
stomach with the other, both at the same time. 

The Chinese in very early days practiced something of 
this sort, as the word "shampooing" is derived from a Hin- 
doo word — Champana, which signifies rubbing, or beating 
the body, or head, in connection with a bath. 

MASSAGE. 

Some Early History on Massage. 

The word "massage" is a French word, derived from 
Greek, meaning to knead, or a mechanical method of 
medical treatment of the body, consisting chiefly in manip- 
ulation administered by the hand of a person trained to 
do this "in a particular way. The history of massage has 



38 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



been traced through various stages of development back 
to early times. Massaging the body was practiced *n 
early times by the Egyptians. Romans and Greeks. Thp 
Greeks used massage, as it is mentioned in their medical 
bcoks, as a practice among athletes and warriors, also 
among the aristocratic families, to produce health, strength 
and beauty. 

After the fall of the Roman Empire the massage treat- 
ment seems to have been abandoned until about the end of 
the seventeenth century, after which time it was practiced 
more or less imperfectly until it was revived about the 
beginning of the nineteenth century by Peter H. Ling, a 
Swede, and placed on a good medical and scientific basis, 
in what is now known as the Swedish movement cure, 
originated by Ling, but this was for the entire body, or 
at least the parts afflicted. It was about 1860 that mas- 
sage, as it is now understood, was fully developed, and as 
now practiced it consists of several different processes. 

Massage does good by mechanically pressing out from 
the tissues material which needs to be removed, or have 
its natural flow accelrated; first in cases of inflammatory 
effusions, and second in cases of imperfect circulation. 

Instructions and illustrations describing and showing 
the proper method of giving facial massage. 

The complex methods of massaging are like all other 
trades and arts, somewhat difficult to explain in writing, 
and the masseurs who produce unusual good are the ones 
who understand the basic principles of the art and prac- 
tice them in the most scientific manner possible. Study 
the likes and dislikes of your customer, noting carefully 
the results produced on those taking regular treatment. 
Use utmost care on the one that has the delicate, sensitive 
skin, and give the ones with tough, healthful faces all 
the force they desire. For headaches, neuralgia and vari- 
ous other nerve ailments may be relieved by an increased 
circulation of the blood to different parts, as good, rich 
blood renews nerve energy, overcomes fatigue and gives 
freshness and new life to the skin. The value of massage 
as applied to the face can only be comprehended by un- 
derstanding the growth of the human skin; that delicate, 
sensitive covering of the body. By reading the notes in 
this book, which so completely explain the continuous 
growth, the constant change and the ever renewing 
process of the skin, you immediately see true worth in 
massage, when applied to any part of the body; not only 
as a cleanser, but as a tissue builder and developer. As 
the growth of the skin is from within, the outer layer 
must necessarily be rubbed, washed or scaled off, so the 
true skin underneath may continue to grow. In order to 
maintain a perfectly healthful body the scnrf skin should be 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 39 



removed regularly, as it aids the body in removing impuri- 
tks so much that should the pores be obstructed, disease 
would seat itself in the body, and if they were entirely 
clogged up, death would ensue. To become expert in this 
work the operator should have a delicate, though Arm 
touch, understand the skin, have good control of his fin- 
gers and nerves, and he should be very gentle as well 
as swift in all his manipulations; for, like all other exer- 
cises, overindulgence or too rough or vigorous work, pro- 
duces effects worse by far than no treatment at all. All 
parts of the hands and fingers come into actual play when 
giving a treatment, so the whole hand should be soft and 
smooth; the nails being trimmed close or smooth enough 
to prevent scratching. It may not be necessary to say 
that the operator should be neat, clean and healthy, as 
in other places in this book you are reminded that health. 
cleaniness and perfect physical conditions are component 
parts of success. 

Practical Instructions and Illustrations. Describing and 

Showing the proper Method of Giving 

Facial Massage. 

First. The first rule to observe is the correct position 
in which to have a person when operating on them. You 
cannot give one a good face massage sitting up in a chair; 
they must be in a reclining position, and far enough back 
so the workman can stand behind them and easily get at 
them; after getting the patient in correct position, tuck 
the towel carefully around the neck, bearing in mind that 
hot towels are to be applied and that they will dampen 
the clothing about the neck unless it is properly protected. 
Nothing could depiive the customer of the good results or 
good face treatment more than to leave your place of 
business, with a lot of damp or wet clothing about his 
neck. 

Second. See that all outer accumulations of dust and 
dirt are removed; if the face is real dirty, lather it up 
freely and wash off all surface dirt carefully, as the cream 
to be applied is not so much for cleaning the outward 
part as it is for cleansing the pores from all impurities. 
The face should be smooth shaved, as beard, even a day's 
growth, hinders the operator. 

To bring the blood to the surfce, open the pores and 
prepare the skin for the cream; hot towels or rubber bags, 
filled with hot water, are applied to the face and head 
until it is moist with persperation, then the cream is ap- 
plied immediately, and evenly distributed over the entire 
face, neck, and on and around the ears; then, before the 
face has time to dry, the operator should begin to rub 



40 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



and knead the face, as in Fig. 35- The little arrowheads 
siow the movements of the fingers for the forehead and 
around the eyes, which should be massaged first, for by 
s i doing- you rub the cream into the skin, and out before 
it begins to dry the least bit: (This should be done ail 
over the face, but in some cases it begins to dry quickly.) 
In all various rubbing and kneading movements you should 
work in opposite directions from all the lines and wrinkles 
of the face, for instance: you know that the lines of the 
forehead run across from temple to temple, except in 
short ones between the eyebrows; hence, you should work 
light across these lines, and with a firm but gentle pres- 
sure, follow the directions shown by the arrows. 

Never rub downwards toward the eyes as this tends 
to make wrinkles and cause furrows. 

Third. Rubbing from the base of the nose backward 
in any direction, and rubbing the eyelids and ears as 
shown in Fig. 36. This constitutes most of the rubbing 
process until the finishing begins. 

Fourth. The kneading rotary movements. Now 
comes the massage proper; the ears, on the forehead, 
and over the eyes; there is not enough flesh to knead 
much, but on the neck and around the cheeks you may 
lie-in the rotary, kneading motion, as in tig. 37. Begin 
at the base of the nose and at the point of the chin, on 
the cheek and chin, and firmly knead, with a circular mo- 
tion upward and backward as far as the outer corner of 
the eyes, for the first movement; then from the point of 
the chin to the bottom of the ears, and around the front 
of the ears, for the second. On thin-faced people this 
movement is more essential than any other, as it helps 
to develop tissues and muscles on the face. 

Fifth. Now work the neck by turning the head to 
one side and perform a simple pinching movement, by 
using the thumb and forefinger, or more effectively made 
with the first two fingers and the thumb. This is really 
a dainty movement and when properly executed is boih 
pleasant and beneficial, as it works the cream out thor- 
oughly, and at the same time seems to generate a current 
of feeling between the operator and the one having the 
work done- The tips of the fingers being the most sensi- 
tive and having by far the most feeling in them, causes 
the pinching movement to be very popular. You may 
understand this movement more fully by practicing on 
yourself. Place your thumb gently against the face, then 
work your first two fingers swiftly, though very effemin- 
ately. Note the glow and animation caused. Practice on 
your own face will enable you to determine just the 
amount of squeezing and pinching your patron requires. 
Tf his skin is loose use one hand t<> stretch the skin, while 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 41 



you massage with the other; holding it not only prevents 
it from rolling around but avoids bruising. 

Sixth. Around the base of the nose on each side is 
a natural wrinkle or line, and when giving a treatment 
do not forget, to give special attention to these lines as 
foreign matter easily collects there and it is a good home 
for the blackhead. Regular massage and cleanliness will 
eventually do away with blackheads. 

Seventh. After going through the rubbing, pinching 
•and kneading movement, take a damp towel and wipe all 
particles of cream, either soft or dry, from the face and 
ears; then another application of hot towels is necessary 
to remove all matter and finish up. The face will now 
present a healthy, glowing appearance from the hot towels 
and exercise given it. A cold towel should be used 10 
close up the pores, and prevent cold from settling in the 
face, which would cause it to appear swollen and make 
the muscles of the face flabby. 

Eigth. Having thoroughly cleaned all parts of the 
face, you may now apply some kind of cream or face lo- 
tion beneficially. If it is a good preparation, it will in- 
vigorate the skin and cause the face to retain its fresh, 
healthy look longer. Some like a strong, pungent lotion 
which burns the face, while others prefer a soothing 
cream or cocoa butter finish. 

MACHINE MASSAGE. 

That massage is becoming more popular every day 
is demonstrated by the fact that large numbers of people 
(both sexes) are now practicing it and have made a pro- 
fession of it. A great many machines have been manu- 
factured for no other purpose than to give these treat- 
ments. Out of all the mechanical inventions which have 
flooded the country some are bound to be superior to 
others. The author, however, is not writing for any par- 
ticular machine, razor, or line of barber supplies, and does 
not wish to express himself as a judge of any of them; still 
it seems feasible that mechanical massage is a meritorious 
innovation, from the hahd manipulations, and where so 
many professional men are availing themselves of the op- 
portunity to equip their places with machines, it shows 
the practical man plainly that a wider field is open to him. 
Some medical authorities claim that of all the different 
procedures in massage, vibration is the most elective. 
Let it be as it may; facial massage, both hand and ma- 
chine, will eventually be part of the Service in all barber 
-hops; for it is already a fixture in all first class shops. 



42 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 

In shops where live, active business men want tonsorial 
service of the best kind; in places where they are not 
satisfied with the conventional haircut and shave, but are 
looking for more invigoration than comes from either of 
these; in these shops face massage is- a real commodity,, 
as it gives rest, tone and comfort to each and all. 

The operations and movements are easy, if you know 
how r and to see one give them seems simple, but they can 
only be acquired properly by studious practice. Ynu should 
become as proficient as possible, for, as said before, face 
massage has come to stay. 

There is a difference in the cream used for' hand and 
machine treatments, as one rubs in and is rubbed out, and 
the other rubs in and must be washed out, or off.. 

DYEING. 

The art of dyeing- in all the different Shades and' 
tinges, is one Which stands out alone. 

Barbers may color hair, one or two colors and do* 
fair work, but when it comes to dyeing human hair on 
the head it is a tedious undertaking and one that few bar- 
bers feel satisfied with after they undertake it; of course, 
there is no reason why a barber should not be able to do 
this work, if he has plenty of it to do, but most of them 
have not. 

In small cities, or towns, where there is not a dyeing 
specialist, the barber might as well do it, as not. 

It resembles some parts of the barber's other work 
in this way; on some customers you will loose money — 
dyeing at the regular prices — unless you are an adept, fur 
the utmost care must be taken, or you will have to do the 
work over. 

HOW TO DYE II VI IS. 

First- Wash the hair thoroughly: it must be entirely 
clean or the hair will not take the dye. 

Second. Dry thoroughly before applying the dye. 

Third. Apply the dye according to directions, then 
dry the hair again. 

Fourth. Rewash the hair With soft water; dry and 
comb. 

HEALTH TIPS— THE SKIN. 

The skin is a tough, thin, semi-transparent, close- 
fitting garment for the protection of our. tender flesh. 
being elastic it is adapted to every motion of the body, 
and not only acts as a covering, but is an active organ' 
which if given the proper attention helps to keep our 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 43 

bodies healthy. It replaces itself as fast as it wears out, 
and oils itself to preserve its smoothness. 

What is usually called the skin is only the cuticle or 
covering of the cutis or true skin. Figure 3S. 

The True Skin. 

The true skin is full of nerves or blood vessels, while 
the cuticle or epidermis has neither. We notice this in 
shaving; on some faces we may scrape layer after layer 
of the cuticle off before we get down to the true skin, but 
when the razor goes below the cuticle it is followed by 
pain and blood. So insensible is this outer layer on some 
parts of the body that we may run a needle through the 
thick parts, especially on the palms of the hands or the 
soles of the feet, without giving us pain. 

This cuticle is composed of small, flat scales which it 
constantly sheds from the surface in the form of scurf; 
these scales, however, are just as constantly formed from 
the cutis below. By staining the outside skin this forma- 
tion becomes more noticeable, as most any kind of stain 
on the outer skin will wear off in a week's time- Most 
reptiles shed their cuticle at regular intervals. 
Value of the Skin. 
The cuticle is invaluable in preventing diseases and 
poison from entering the system. In vaccination the 
vaccine matter must be inserted beneath the cuticle to 
enter the blood and take effect, as the blood is in the true 
skin only. 

The Complexion. 

In the newly made cells on the underside of the cuti- 
cle is the coloring pigment. It is composed of tiny grains 
or globules, and in the varying tint of this coloring mat- 
ter lies the difference in complexion between the blond*; 
and brunette. 

Most all nationalities have coloring matter in their 
skin, in fact, all but the Albinos: they are said to have 
no coloring pigment in their skin, hair or eyes, conse- 
quently they have no complexion. The sun has a very 
marked effect upon this coloring pigment, causing it to 
accumulate when exposed to its rays; this accumulation 
is tan, and when the coloring matter gathers in spots it 
forms freckles. To remove tan and freckles is much more 
difficult than to keep the skin clear by preventing sun- 
burn; like health, the preservation of the skin, or health, 
either, is much easier than the cure of a disease. 

HEALTH TIPS. 

We cannot bundle up sleep tonight for tomorrow 
night's use, nor can we cram our stomachs at one meal 
because vve expect to eat sparingly :it the next. Nature 



44 MACK'S BARbERS' GUIDE 

does nothing before her appointed time, and any attempt 
to hurry her means ultimate disaster, Cor there Is no such 
thing- as cheating nature; she may not present the oil! 
the same day we violate her laws, but it we overdraw 
our account at her bank and give her a mortgage on our 
life and body she will surely foreclose. 

Disease of any kind cripples the young as well as the 
old, and there is no kind of achievement equal to perfect 
health; no intense pleasures; no strong emotions; no flery 
ambitions come to those who lack it; every one who knows 
you, reads your weakness, lack of health and vigor in your 
unsteady eye or hand, or your hesitating step. Your more 
progressive brothers will note your infirmities in every let- 
ter you write, in .-very speech you make, in every thing 
you do. You cannot disguise it, and the probabilities are, 
you will full as Car below the successful business line as 
you are In the health line, Whal would gray hairs and 
wrinkles have to do with youth If we lived, and our forc- 
fathers hud lived as they should, Young men and women 
are bald, gray and wrinkled nowadays before they are 
out of their twenties, and many are old before they reach 
middle age- 

The Caoilities of your mind will sympathize with every 
defed of your body, so you must be strong physically as 
well as mentally. The struggle Cor life and high living has 
become so Intense in this competitive, nerve-goading, as 
well as enterprising age, that only the strong and robust and 
those of great staying power can expect to reach the high- 
est i A weak, ohestless, Coroelesa, hesitating, half- 
developed, diseased young man may make a living, but he 
will never climb very high; this kind of a fellow seldom 
g<ds at the head of anything, but generally marches in the 
rear. 

We should study nature more closely, for when we 
study it we study overselves; few of us know enough to 
grow old In ! only about three or four per cent of 

the American people die of anything like old age. 

Foolishness in Diet. 

Some of us are careful enough to ventilate our sleep- 
ing rooms, sterilise our food and keep our bodies reason- 
ably olean, yet we overeat ourselves, we pour loe water or 
other liquors just as bad Into our stomachs, ignorant or 
careless of the faot that it takes one-half hour to recover 
from the shock and crot the temperature back, so that the 
stomach ean pro on with its delicate digestive process: thmi 
if wo feel a little feverish, down goes more dope with sim- 
ilar results, 

Some of us drink whisky, beer and alcohol in Quanti- 
ties which thicken the velvety lining of our stomachs. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 45 



hardens the soft tissues and nerves, as well as the gray 
matter of the brain; alcohol can in no form be convi 
into brain, nerve, muscle or blood, still we crowd wines, 
beer and other liquids with meats, vegetables, pastry, con- 
fectionery and other foods, into the most delicately con- 
structed organ of the body, and expect it to take care 
of this miscellaneous load without a murmur; some of us 
don't even chew up this food, and the best of us masti- 
cate poorly; in short, we commit no end of mistakes every 
day of our lives, and yet we expect the delicate machinery 
of our bodies to run along to the century mark without 
a jar or break, but this is not hardly possible, as there are 
always thousands of invalids and incompetants; thousands 
of doctors and nurses; drug stores on every corner, and 
suffering on every hand. Earnest study and the practice 
of good common sense can nowhere be so beneficially ap- 
plied as in one's care for health. We know we are doing 
wrong when we do not diet ourselves. Some of us would 
like to reform, out we have a morbid fear of being laughed 
at, if we aim to live, eat and drink according to conscience 
and good sense. Some of us break away for a while and 
enslave ourselves to a diet. We read about others who 
take care of themselves by proper exercise and food, but 
our dieting does not last long. We quickly swing back 
into the great line of eating and drinking anything and 
everything. We say to ourselves: "What is a stomach for, 
if it is not to obey the palate?" 

When you find yourselves becoming morose and de- 
spondent; when you are fully conscious that you are losing 
the edge of the keen interest in your work, and things 
generally, and when, later, life becomes a burden, yon 
may be sure that you have exhausted your vitality in some 
way; you may need more sleep, more outdoor exercise 
simpler and more nutritious food, in the proper quanti- 
ties and at the exact time. 

If you get these you will win back all the old-time 
enthusiasm. In summertime a daily stroll through the 
country, over hills or mountains. through meadow or 
stream; take an outing of some kind where you have only 
the heavens for shelter above and a carpet of grass. This 
will erase the dark pictures of despondency that haunt you 
and restore buoyancy to your physical and mental exist- 
ence. There are but few places in the world where people 
live that there is not room for all the hunters, fishers, pie- 
nicers and ramblers that wish to retain freshness and 
vigor. Xo man or woman is normal who does not feel 
thankful every day of their lives that he or she is alive. 
and enjoys the mere act of living. We should be thank- 
ful, too, of living in this great time instead of the dim 



46 MACK'5 BARBERS' GUIDE 



ages of the past; this is an ambition worth striving for 
alone. 

THE CAUSE OF CHEAP SHOPS. 

Whiskey and alcoholic drinks are the principal hold- 
backs of nice, clean, sanitary and respectable barber shops. 
Who patronizes the three and five-cent shops in the big 
cities? The answer is easy, the men who drink three and 
five-cent "booze;" now who patronize the ten-cent shops 
in places where fifteen-cent shaves are considered within 
the bounds of reason? (That is they take the place of 
five-cent shops in the larger cities.) This answer is not 
far from the former, for if it is not altogether men who 
drink ten-cent wiskey, it is generally the ones who drink 
more or less; still this class of shops is separate and dis- 
tinct from all others, as they are often patronized by 
workmen who are striving for bettor positions and higher 
wages, and most of them are willing to pay fifteen- cents 
for a shave, provided all the shops would demand it, but 
tiny do not feel like paying more than is universally cus- 
tomary. 

This is where unions help the employer as well as 
the employee in keeping up prices. None of us can deny 
that whiskey is the sole cause of many cheap, dirty, un- 
sanitary simps, and we all know that if one-third the 
money spent in saloons ami dives for alcoholic drinks 
(that should not be spent there) was spent in the barber 
shops, that the trade would soon change from a trade to 
a profession, for no man who studied from two to five 
years to complete an apprenticeship would ever shave for 
three or five rents. if this were done the cheap places 
would have to go out of business, as human nature would 
pr >mp1 these men to go to the nicer places, if they were 
not full of this "brain paralyzer." 

THE n \iu. 

The Cse and- Value of Tt. 

If the value of the hair to the human race was to be 
determined by the amount of care generally shown in its 
preservation, we would be inclined to consider it as an 
almost useless appendage, but without this gift of nature, 
accidents would be more fatal, and humanity would be 
shorn of its most beautiful adornment. 

Hair has been an object of admiration through all 
ages of the human race, and if kept properly it Is a great 
factor in promoting personal beauty. It is the chief adorn- 
ment of woman and should be a source of pleasurable 
pride to man, for without it the handsomest face sinks 
into insignificant plainness. 

As a defensive agent the hair of the head forms a 
thick, elastic cushion, and in many Instances has prevented 



MACK'S BARBERS GUIDE 



47 



fatal injuries. The eyebrows defend the eyes, and the eye- 
lashes catch flying particles of dust and keep it from the 
-eyeballs. Pew people really appreciates the value of their 
hair until it is gone- 

The Anatomy of a Hair. 

The hair Is a modified form of the skin, being an 
epidermic structure. The nails of the fingers and toes; 
the feathers of a bird; the bristles of a hog; the scaly 
back of a turtle and the horns of cattle all correspond to 
the hair in composition and use. 

It is found on nearly all parts of the body, except the 
palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. The out- 
side of a hair is hard and compact, consisting of layers 
of colorless scales, which overlie or lap one another. Un- 




Figure 38 



'Shows a sectional view of the skin, highly magnified, 
with a healthy hair growing out of it. 

1 and 4 show the route of the epidermic cells as they 
are conveyed from the surface to the root of the hair or 
papilla, 5. 

2. The shaft or main body of the hair. 

3. The sebaceous glands, the over secretion of which 
3s partially the cause of too much dandruff, 

6. Fat cells. 

7. 'A muscle. 

S. A perspiratory tube with gland. 
!>. Cuticle or epidermis. 



48 MACks l;\kT,| RV (dJIDF: 

derneath this compact, scaly substance lies a softer and 
more fibrous layer; the interior being porus or pithy, aj 
in Fig. 38, No. 2. In the second, or fibrous layer, is found 
the coloring pigment, which gives it its color, while the 
liquid by which the hair receive part of its nourishment 
is conveyed through the pithy center. 

Each hair grows from a minute bulb, called the 
papilla, No, 5, Fig. 38, which is only an elevation of the 
cutis or derma. 

From ilif surface of this bulb the hair is produced 
by the constant formation of new cells— epidermic — see- 
Fig. 38, No. l. shows the way these surface cells are trans- 
ferred down the follicle at the bottom of the papilla. The 
papilla or the termination of the nerves which cover 
the entire body, and, as has been stated before, hair ex- 
ists "ii nearlj all parts of the body. 

Should you wish to destro> your hair you would have 
a very difficult, tedious and painful job, as you would have 
to §ro down deep in the true skin and destroy the papilla, 
which no! only contains blood, hut nerves. 

This is why scars generally fail to produce hair, the 
papilla being totally destroyed from the same cam.e '>i 
the seni' Pulling the hair out does not destroy the hud). 
foi ii uninjured otherwise, it will produce a new hair. 
When the papilla is totally destroyed it will never grow 
hair again. Look, for instance, at the heads that are so 
bald that they have become slick and shiny, there you 
have ;i case whore possibly the papilla has been destroyed, 
and on these heads ehauees for hair is slim. 

There Is no feeling in the hair as, we may cut it 
Without pain, hut by pulling it we become aware of its 
delicate sensitiveness, as nerves are found in the follicles 
in which the hair is rooted. Tiny mucles interlaced among 
the fibers of the skin contract under the influence of cold, 
electricity < te.. causing the hair to stand on end. In 
horses :nid other animals, which are able to shake their 
whole skin, to protect themselves from Hies, these mucsles 
are said to be more developed than in man. The dog or 
for example, when angered, excited or surprised, can 
immediately raise the hair on their bodies. 

Life of the Hair. 

It has been said thai the life of the hair is from two 
to six years; this is supposition, however, as it will grow 
oni\ aboul eight or ten inches in a year's time: now giv^ 
it six years, the limit, that would make the longest hair 
not over sixty inches; so it is plain to see that in some 
cases the hair has either grown more than ten inches 
a year or has lived for more than six years, as eases are 



MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE 49 



frequent where the hair has obtained a length of over 
five foot 

Composition of the Hair. 

Scientists tell us that the hair is composed of carbon, 
hydrogen, nitrogen and oxygen together with a little lime 
and iron. Its most characteristic constituent is sulphur, 
of which it contains from five to eight per cent. The dis- 
agreeable odor from burning hair is caused by gas, de- 
rived from the sulphur it contains; this gas is called sul- 
phurated hydrogen. Scientists also say that from sixty 10 
seventy per cent of the middle-aged people, or even thos< 
of a younger class who have gray hairs, are of a rheumatic 
tendency and suffer from an excess of uric acid, in the 
blood, or from exposure or dissipation. We all know the 
action of acid upon iron and as the coloring pigment of 
the hair is composed principally of iron, you can readily 
see why it might cause grayness. 

Cause of Poor Hair. 

The blood is said to be life. The hair is also claimed 
by some to grow after death, but it does not; the appear- 
ance of growtli is due to the fact that by the shrinking of 
the skin the parts of the hair below the surface are caused 
to project, which is especially noticeable in the beard. 

Anemic, or poor-blooded people, have a weak or scanty 
growtli of hair, in fact, all parts of the body are more or 
less affected by poor blood. 

The follicle of the hair is so intimately connected with 
the minute arteries and capillaries that each follicle bas- 
ils own special supply of blood. Now, if these small arteries 
and capillaries fail to operate, or if the blood in them is 
poor, there is bound to be a detrimental effect upon the 
whole structure of the hail-. 

Curly hair arises from its oval or imperfect shape; it 
is not strong equally, as it bends or curls on the weak side 
and as a general rule it is not so strong and healthy as 
straight hair; the natural oil is deficient, which often 
causes the hair to split at the ends or to be constantly 
breaking off where possibly you would imagine this to be 
some other than a natural cause. 

Remedy. 

This is where the singeing theory prevails. "When the 
hair begins to show an unhealthy growth by breaking or 
splitting it should be cut or singed, and singeing seems to 
be more practical, for by doing this you sear the end «-f 
the hair — just as you would a small rubber tube by burn- 
ing — thus keeping the natural life fluid within, causing it 
to be flexible and pliant. As said before, the liquid which 



50 MACK'S BARBER'S GUIDE. 

nourishes the hair is conveyed from the follicle through 
the hollow or pithy center of it, and to nourish it properly, 
it should ooze through the second, or fibrous layer, and 
keep it pliant; now if it is cut, the question is, will it heal 
immediately or will it continue in a dry, brittle condition 
and keep splitting? Authorities differ on this subejct; 
presumably, the fact is, that man has not yet fathomed the 
infinite divisability of matter. 

Difference in the Hair. 

The hair differs, not only in color, but in texture and 
composition. Black hair contains the largest quantity of 
iron; brown or chestnut, magnesia; light hair, an excess 
of sulphur; while gray hair contains less iron and sulphur, 
but more "phosphate." One who makes it a study can de- 
tect the difference in the smell of gray and black hair 
when burning, so they claim. 

Some is naturally dry. brittle and apparently dead, 
while other hair is oily or wiry. 

The quality and conditions of the hair varies greatly 
with the different periods of life, and to care for it intel- 
ligently you should be thoroughly acquainted with these 
conditions. 

Necessity of the Shampoo. 

It is necessary to clean the hair regularly, since .the 
hair and scalp can not be healthy any more than the skin, 
unless it is cleansed of impurities. The oil glands of the 
scalp choke up and become irritated, this causes a scanty 
and, later, an over secretion, making the hair oily and 
causing a scab or scale; the hair follicle become unhealthy 
so that the hair .grows poorly or falls out, and when one 
falls out that is eight or ten inches long it takes about 
twelve months to replace it with another of equal length. 

Washing the hair is imperative as a matter of per- 
sonal cleanliness, and a shampoo once a month is not a 
day too often for any head of hair. Just as soon as the 
hair feels sticky, mats up, becomes too oily, or comes out, 
it is evident that the hair needs a shampoo- 

The frequency of the head wash depends on the em- 
ployment and individual peculiarities; some people have 
employment which demands that they should wash their 
hair once a day; in cases of this kind the hair should be 
worn short and washed when the face is washed, or a close- 
fitting cap should be worn to keep the dirt out of the hair 
— this is not good for the hair though, as it keeps the 
head too warm. 

Pure water on short hair will never encourage its 
dropping out, but where it is long, too frequent hair wash- 
ing Will cause hair rot as the water washes away the 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE. 51 



natural oil supply faster than it should, leaving the hair 
dry and causing the scalp to be scaly, especially if too 
warm water is used. Some people's hair becomes more 
oily in the same length of time than others, as some peo- 
ple perspire more freely, naturally, or on account of their 
occupations, than others, so hear in mind that it should, 
under all circumstances, be kept clean. 

How Poor Circulation Affects the Hair. 

tmproper circulation In the minute blood vessels of 
the scalp soon cause the hair to lose its vitality; it be- 
comes dun looking and brittle, and the little sacks from 
which it grows are actually choked oul of existence. It 
Is claimed some baldness has been due to microbes, but 
the microbe of baldness could not exist If the roots of the 
hair were properly nourished with a sufficient supply of 
pure blood, and the scalp kept in a perfectly healthy con- 
dition. 

Hair Tonics. 

Hair tonics may be good to bring ouj the impurities 
which clog the follicles and t<> destroy the microbes. When 
tonics have the proper Ingredients, scientifically com- 
pounded, they are undoubtedly beneficial, if applied cor- 
rectly. 

Application or Tonics. 

Proper application of hair tonics is very Important, 
as the scalp, ami not the body of tin- hair alone, is to be 
benefited. 

When N"i!ic people wet their hair with tonic th-^y 
think it should stop falling out immediately and become 
healthy. This is one reason thai good tonics have been 
abandoned and bald heads have continued to exist, be- 
cause we neglect our bodies, our heads and our hair. First. 
Our bodies by general dissipation: by not taking the proper 
food at the proper time: by not taking the necessary ex r -r^ 
else at the correct time, causing poor blood and sluggish 
circulation, second, By not keeping our scalp clea^n, and 
in at least a semi-sanitary condition- Third. By not brush- 
ing our hair vigorously, applying our tonics direct to th^ 
scalp and rubbing them in thoroughly. 

Is there any remedy or preventive for barbers to pre- 
scribe for poor hair and baldness? Yes. Most decidedly 
yes! Although some professional medical men may ridi- 
cule the idea. We know that people's hair falls out de- 
spite the treatment of hairdressers, » doctors and barbers, 
We know that people fall victims to ordinary complaints, 
and finally Buccumb despite the medieai profession and 
all they can do. Why do doctors prescribe medicine and 



52 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 

massage? If these restore new life to the limbs and ani- 
mation to the body, why will not good tonics, coupled with 
the laws of health, restore life to the papilla and preserve 
the hair and its color? 

AYith pure air and food, good blood and all the cx- 
ternal treament necessary improvement is sure to follow; 
in fact, this should keep the hair growing luxuriantly. 

Dandruff (Scborrhoea). 

Until 188 7 dandruff was classified by specialists as a 
functional disease, that is one that is developed in tlv? 
body, but in the year mentioned a German specialist, Pro* 
fessor Unna, of Hamburg, Germany, came to the conclus- 
ion, by continued experiments, that it was 
not a Cunctibnal disease, but entirely parasitic; that is, 
a disease that is caught. To cure any disease you must 
first determine the cause, then the road is clear for a cure. 
At first scientific men refused to accept Unna's verdict, but 
later, after other scientists began to make demonstrations 
and assertions, his statements were accepted by some as 
true, and the scientific fraternity began to treat the dan- 
druff disease as a parasitical one. Before this discovery, 
however, medical men prescribed internal medicine, and 
expected to cure it that way. Internal treatment, no doubt. 
would help to cure it, but whether it can be cured either 
way permanently is yet to be seen; no doubt it can, as 
small pox and many other diseases of the same nature. 
i. e., they are caught in the same manner, or now handled 
easily. 

Grayness. 
What is grayness? This in some cases is caused by 
absence of coloring matter in the hair, but 'tis said that 
often it is caused by the presence of air globes in the fibrous 
portion of the hair, these minute air globes being so 
situated as to obscure the coloring pigment. Scientists tell 
us that the cells, of which the fibrous portion of the hair 
is composed, instead of being filled with a horny plasma or 
impregnated with an aqueous fluid, and that the wasting 
of this fluid leaves behind it vacuums, which in the later 
growth of the hair, the shaft becomes filled with air- This 
causes us to consider what grayness really is in this case. 
No doubt we have all noticed the difference in the shade 
of gray hair, both in young and elderly people. To gray- 
ness of old age is brought on by natural decay; nature 
failing to secrete the coloring matter in about the same 
way as the complexion fades or becomes sallow, and a gen- 
eral decay of the system sets in. While that of youth is 
often caused by the air globes, these arising from com- 
plaints of the scalp, contraction of the fibrous tissues of 



MACK'S I5ARBUR5' GUIDE 5 3 

the cerium, or lower skin, causes pressure on the delicate 
blood capillaries and nerve tissue g [ueiitly impoverish- 

ing the plasmatical or lymphatic fluids, w'lich nourish the 
hair. When the coloring pigment exists, the hair has a slight 
yellowish tint or stained appearance, bul when the gray- 
nesa is caused by the presence of air, ii assumes a white 
or steel gray color. Usually the decrepit, feeble, old per- 
son's hair is of the former color, while the wiry, active, old 
people invariably have hair of a steel gray color, or it re- 
tains its natural color. These people are the men and 
women who have hud pure blood with a good circulation 
during earlier life, 

Youthful Graynegs, 

Gray hair is, however, not confined to the aged, ana in 
some instances quite young' children are gray, very frequent. 
ly grayness comes with middle-aged people and particularly 
among these who possess naturally wavy or frizzled hair. 
The darker and coarser this frizzy hair, the .earlier it turns 
gray. The cause generally being loss of coloring pigment; 
tiiis js often congenital or hereditary. It is not at all un- 
usual to see a boy or girl who resemble their parents; we 
often see them who have eyeg exactly like their father or 
mother, both in color and jn shape; why then can't we 
suppose family hair to he likewise, Sudden change of 
eolor in the hair of young people may be due to shock or 
exposure, as the nerves control the action of the muscles 
which are Interlaced around and between the blood ves- 
A shock may cause contraction, or shut off the flow 
of blood and thus allow the air to escape Into the shaft 
of the hair, producing air globes and causing the white 
or gray effect. Cases of gray hair regaining its original 
color are very rare, but M geems possible that it might, 
should the muscles relax and the blood circulation become 
normal, but no doubt when the tiny muscles contract, a 
Kind of paralysis comes over them and they become either 
ridged, or lose their power to act entirely: this may be 
what we call a hide-bound scalp. 

Often gray hairs «h©w up on the temples before other 
parts of the head begins to turn gray; this, some say, is 
caused by pressure at oar hats upon the temporal arteries, 
Interrupting th© How of blood to the half Sacks, around 
the temples, 

A- the hair \S formed by constant formation of epir- 

o-rmu Us, its growth la the result of a process or adding 

to at the roetg, the nowr additions pushing 
the fully developed ones upwards, through the mouth of 
the follicle, The supply of thest eeJJg eemes from th»i 
ciurrpno of \ho skin, passing down ttm follicle they ar« 
added to at the roots of the hair, forming n part of the 



54 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 

fibrous or corticle portion of the hair itself- '! his showa 

Us the important part which the circulation of pure blood, 
in the skin, plays in constructing: a healthy hair, for if the 
skin is too dry and scaly, and the eperdermic cells are 
shed on the surface, they are not conveyed down the folli- 
cle in sufficient quantities to promote healthy hair growth, 
thus the haii is stunted and may come out, but if it does 
hot come out, air is admitted into the construction of the 
hair, through an insufficient supply of eperdermic cells; 
this, no doubt, being one of the most common and preva- 
lent causes of grayneas. 

Grayness No Disgracd 

It is easy to understand why nun. as well as women. 
in these days of competition between young and old. view 
with alarm the advent of gray hairs, for it is then that the 
hair has that frizzled, dowdy, stained appearance, during 
the transition from its natural color to white, except it be 
with very black-haired people, then a sprinkling of silver? 
gray often lias a decidedly good effect. Hair dyes con- 
taining strong coloring matter, are almost universally per- 
nicious substances, depending for their coloring propertied 
upon the action of lead or lunar caustic they generally 
contain. Fashion has her repentant freaks, as well as her 
ruinous follies, and it is a healthful sign that the era of 
Universal hair dyeing has been blotted out from the pres- 
ent fashion calendar. The gray hairs of age are now hon- 
ored with the highesl place in style, as well as in good 
s t use and cleanliness. 

There are less red hairs to the same amount of sur- 
face than any other color; more black than red. 

Dressing the Hair. 

Style and vanity often interferes with the growth and 
luxuriance Of the hair among women, as the hair is burnt, 
curled and twisted into such Shapes that it can get only 
so long, no matter what condition their systems may be in. 

Nature is sure to rebel against fashion, whenever fash- 
ion gets in her road, and the Simplest mode of wearing the 
hair is usually the best. They should not attempt to make 
it curl by burning. Squeezing or twisting it up. for the one? 
who have naturally curly hair are trying just as hard to 
straighten theirs out. 

RARBEirs ITCH. 

After shaving very close, microscopic inspection show's 
little drops of blood on the face, caused by removing the 
outer skin and exposing the minute capillaries: in this 
condition thev absorb most any disease they come in con- 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUiDL 55 



tact with, and this is what causes the unpleasant itching 
sensation felt after being shaved too close, or improperly. 

Often when a man shaves himself he scrapes off part 
and pulls out the rest of his whiskers, and when engaged 
in this operation, he too takes off the outer skin in places, 
If he comes in contact with germs, while his face is in 
this shape, they are taken up by the blood, but the disease 
may not break out for days after, so if he is the man, who 
occasionally enjoys, a good shop shave, he has a good rea- 
son (so he thinks) to blame the last barber who shaved 
him. 

Whether there is really a disease, that is and should 
be called "barber's itch," when it comes to classifying skin 
diseases, is a question which no doubt every boss barber of 
any importance, as well as a few M. D.'s, have asked them- 
selves- It is, so some claim, an eruption of the epidermis 
or outer skin at first, but later affects the under skin and 
finally develops into bad sores. Some claim it to be caused 
by close shaving alone; others claim it is caused by various 
infections, w T hich looks more plausible. The man who 
shaves himself at home sometimes has it; the fellow who 
is unclean in his regular habits and carelessly neglects to 
wash himself, accumulates a choice collection of germs 
and bacilli, which under favorable conditions might cause 
small pox, measles or any other of the various complaints 
which the human flesh is heir to. A pimple or scratch 
may become infected by these germs; that part become 
irritated, and if the system is in that half-way shape, it 
will quickly spread to other parts of the body. The well- 
dressed individual who gets three or four shaves a weex, 
and is continually insisting on you to shave him two days 
under the skin, is extending a very cordial invitation to 
these germs so dreaded by master barbers, as well as the 
unfortunate victim, who has once come in contact with it. 

The man who persistently disobeys the laws of health, 
by taking all kinds of food and drink at all hours, and by 
exercising irregular, becomes dissipated; his blood is in 
poor shape; he is just on the verge of collapse, and is an 
easy victim to any disease which he comes in contact with; 
his skin is ready to absorb all the impurities of the disease 
calendar, and as he walks around shaking hands with his 
friends, he too is extending an invitation, unawares. He 
may contract it one place on his body, and it may break 
out at another. If it breaks out on his face or neck, the 
ordinary M. D. is generally ready to pronounce it BAR- 
BER'S ITCH, when it is not that disease, but something 
else. 

There are a great many skin disorders, and when 
people become so neglectful as to let their blood get out 
of shape and their entire system run down so that it 



56 MAOC5 BARBER'5 GUIDE 



readily takes in every disease prevalent, they will catch 
the so-called barber's itch in twenty places outside, tu 
where tiiey contract it once, in the first-class shaving par- 
lor. All first-class shops keep strong- antiseptics, and when 
the customer has been shaved — unless he' is a crank and 
does not want it — these lotions are applied. The barber 
may as well prevent the disease when he can, but when 
he is not able to prevent, and it is contracted elsewhere, 
he should have a cure for it in his shop. 

The time may soon come when more trades and occu- 
pations will be turned into professions, as the barber trade 
is now slowly but surely doing. The barber now has, in 
a good many states, to go before a state board of profes- 
sional men and stand an examination in JLatin, medicine, 
physical culture, agriculture, and a good many other cul- 
tures, before he can remove the hirsute appendage accord- 
ing to law, so some of the cranks will tell you. Some of 
the older boys in the craft (the ones who really know how 
to wield the blade and remove your whsikers without cut- 
ting your throat, but who do not know so much about 
antiseptics and germicides) seem somewhat provoked at 
the license law. at times, because they do not understand 
the tirst symptoms of tonsilitis, spinal meningitis, lock- 
jaw or hydrophobia, nevertheless, old boys, keep your 
spirits up by thinking and studying the case over; always 
looking on the bright side of life, as you listen to the 
music Of the shears, which contribute s more to the gaiety 
of the situation than worrying about what is to be and the 
so-called barber's Itch. 

Barber's itch (sycosis) is (so experts claim) a pustu- 
lar eruption upon the scalp or bearded part of the face, 
possibly due to ringworm, acne or impetigo. To under- 
stand the disease and to successfully treat it you must 
have some idea of the construction of the skin, also of 
other skin diseases- '1 he patient, too, must help you by 
taking care of himself. Some doctors tell you that it will 
not break out on other parts of the body, except that which 
is covered with heavy hair, for they say it is a disease of 
the hair roots only, but in treating a patient do not let him 
pick the sores on his head or face and then rub or scratch 
other parts of his body with his unclean fingers, for it is 
apt 10 spread. 

Eczema, acne. Impetigo, and barber's itch are very 
much alike, especially the last two. Eczema is an inflam- 
matory disease of the skin, characterized by redness and 
itching. Acne is similar, but more of a gland disease, 
ivhile impetigo and Barber's itch are very much the same, 
that is, they are difficult to diagnose at certain stages, as 
they both discharge a watery exudation which dries and 
leaves a crust or seal'. The scientific wax of treating these 



MAGICS BARBERS 1 GUIDE 57 



diseases is to apply salves or ointments which prevent thorn 
from spreading and dry them up. Watery solutions are 
not, as a rule, so good. The recipes in this book for these 
(diseases are infallible, 

HISTORY ON THE TRADE. 

The word barber is a derivative of the Latin word 
barba, meaning beard; a person who shaves others and 
■cuts their hair. 

The barber's trade is a very ancient one, as it is men- 
tioned in the Bible, Ezekiel, fifth chapter and first verse. 
The practice of shaving the beard was common among 
the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. The art was 
practiced in Greece 420 years before Christ, and it is said 
to have been brought from Sicily to Rome 299 years before 
■Christ. Among the ancient Israelites the removal of the 
beard by shaving or pulling it out was a sign of mourning. 
In former times barbers served the public in the ca- 
pacity of surgeons, as well as hair cutters; the trade and 
profession being conjoined, but barbers only practiced 
• minor operations, such as pulling teeth and letting blood. 
In England, barbers first received incorporation in 1481, 
.with certain privileges. Some of these privileges entitled 
,.them to. practice surgery, as in this article, while at that 
Ume-;.and at that place, surgeons were prohibited iunn 
: shaving, which was no doubt a good thing for them- In 
rl 7 4 5,.. however.,. in the same country, barbers and surgeons 
.were, separated into separate and distinct trades, or 
professions. In the days following, the barber shop be- 
came a favorite resort for idle persons, and in addition to 
.its attraction as a. focus of news, a lute, violin, or some 
. other, instrument, was kept for the entertainment of wait- 
ing customers. 

The barber's sign in those days consisted in a small 
. .pole, something similar to the one of today, only at that 
time a basin was suspended from the pole, which repre- 
sented the vessel for the blood. The fillet, or spiral, red 
stripe around the pole, indicated the ribbon for bandaging 
the arm when bleeding. How long this primitive sign was 
used to represent barber shops, before the date mentioned 
here, history..does not record, but there is one thing we 
.do know,, and that is, that a sign of this description still 
represents ^ a : barber shop, and will continue to, until the 
barbers, and they alone, see fit to change it. It seems that 
the red, white, and .blue pole would be more appropriate 
for. surgeons, than barbers,, if. the symbol counts for any- 
thing. 

B ARBER LEGISLATION. 
To read and study facts concerning barber legisla- 
tion: the cause and effect of it; especially the gnorl pro- 



58 MACK'S BARBERS' GUlDt 



duced by it, is something which every workman should 
study with profit. What is it, and what was the cause of 
the first law being formed? To understand the answer 
and to be benefited one must put aside prejudice; put it 
aside more fully in reading along these lines than any 
other, for the masses, who are influential or closely con- 
nected with our profession, have views diametrically op- 
posite ours, or what ours should be. 

Let us start with Minnesota, for here was where the 
first laws were made in the United States to govern bar- 
bers. In 1897 a bill presented to the Minnesota legislature,, 
was enacted, making the first law to regulate the practice 
of barbering in the United States, or probably the first <»f 
its kind in existence. The majority of the barbers in tho 
state were in favor of the law then, and must still be, as 
their law has never been repealed or annulled. There was 
numerous causes for this initial law. 

The enterprising barber is precisely like any an- 
other ambitious man; being continually dissatisfied with 
his conditions, he is constantly looking for new remedies, 
and seeking a panacea to blot out all complications, which 
might arise to handicap him in his quest for greatness; 
perchance he could see genuine merit in the enactment of 
laws to compel unsanitary, unscrupulous individuals to 
serve the proper apprenticeship time, instead of pushing 
himself on the public. We all know that if one of these 
unreasonable chaps opens a shop next door to us he will 
hurt our trade, even if he never has the same patron 
twice, for the public will blindly stumble in these shop*. 
Just before the year previously mentioned, a portion of 
our country was infested with the so-called barber colleges. 
Minnesota, or near there, was headquarters for these 
schools, and they were conducted on a very cleverly 
schemed system, a system which fleeced many a young 
man out of what few dollars he had, by making him be- 
lieve that a six or eight weeks' course would sufficiently 
fit him for a first-clasS position, or make him a practical 
and competent boss barber. 

This no doubt was the first and real cause of laws be- 
ing enacted — not to give back the dupe his money, but to 
govern the so-called graduate and to compel him to filf 
the bill or take down his sign. A great many of these boys 
are worse off when they finish an eight weeks" course than 
they would be to start a shop without any schooling, and 
learn by absorption, for they are not out only their tuition, 
but in most instances they are started wrong; imagine a 
person starting out to practice medicine with six or eight 
weeks' instructions, or a man to practice law with the same 
experience. Now these examples are a little in the ex- 
treme; still if you start each .»ut with a common school edu- 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 59 

cation to study medicine, law and barbering, the likelihood 
Is that the one studying medicine or the one studying law 
will be an M. D. or a lawyer before the apprentice is what 
could be termed an A-l workman, fully competent to con- 
duct the business as it should be. 

Since 18 97 some fifteen or twenty states have enacted 
more or less similar laws, which shows for itself that law 
Is coming, whether all the barbers want it or not. If a 
man is prone to argue against this law question, he can 
show you all the mean things that every state board exam- 
iner has done while in office; he can explain to you just 
how much red tape is connected with every law from the 
time it was a mere bill until it passed and became a law; 
he may be able to give you an itemized expense account 
of each member of every board from the time of his first 
aspirations to hold office until he was appointed or elected, 
Just to show you that it is all a bundle of unnecessary ex- 
pense and downright foolishness, but there are two sides to 
every question. If a law is made and does not at first prove 
beneficial, because of some little flaw, should this alone 
stop the progress of other enactments? If a calamity 
holwer howls because the board is the cause of the State 
extracting one or five dollars (never over five) from him 
every twelve months, should the progressive, brainy barber 
rise up with the howler and say "Down with legislation?" 
Do the barbers want law? Undoubtedly they do, in some 
states, the majority at least, for if they do not. why don't 
they rise up, out of that shiftless, unpretentious manner 
and oppose it in a body. Law should be made by repre- 
sentation of the most of the people interested in that spe- 
cific law, although agitators may present a radical bill, and 
because they have a paid up vote in the legislatures they 
can railroad it through. In laws of this kind the weak 
points finally show up and it is annulled, as in some states 
it has been. The question is, are they for better or for 
worse? Do the state boards, the license laws and the extra 
•expense help to improve the workman or better the shops? 
Or does It seem as if the barbers, who are trying to raise 
the trade from a trade to a profession, or wasting their 
time looking after laws, and trying to force something on 
their brother barbers they do not want? Some of the bar- 
bers who have been on the state board, especially those 
who have accomplished the most good, have been men 
whose time has been worth more to them In their own 
shops than it was attending conventions and examinations. 

Following is a copy of the first law regulating the 
practice of barbering in the United States. Other state 
laws are more or le^s similar to this law: 



60 MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE 



LAW REGULATING PRACTICE OF BARBERIXG IN 
MINNESOTA. 

Chapter 186, Laws of 1897: 

An act to regulate the practice of barbering, the licens- 
ing- of persons to carry on such practice, and to insure the 
better education of such practitioners in the State of Min- 
nesota, 
lie it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota 

Section 1. It shall be unlawful for any person to fol- 
low the occupation of barber in this state unless he shall 
have first obtained a certificate of registration, as provided 
In this act; provided, however, that nothing in this act con- 
tained shall apply to or affect any person who is now ac- 
tually engaged in such occupation, except as hereinafter 
provided. 

Sec. 2. A board of examiners, to consist of three (3) 
persons, Is hereby created to carry out the purpose and 
enforce the provisions of this act. Said board shall be ap- 
pointed by the governor, one (1) member from those per- 
sons who may be recommended by the several unions of 
journeyman barbers in this state which have been in actual 
existence at least two (2) years prior to the making of 
such recommendation; one (1) member who has been for 
at least three (3) years prior to his appointment an employ- 
ing barber in this state, and the third (3rd) a practical bar- 
ber who has been for at least five (5) years prior to his 
appointment engaged in such occupation in this state. 

Each member of said board shall serve for a term of 
two (2) years and until his successor is appointed and 
qualified, except in the case of the first board, whose mem- 
bers shall serve one (1), two (2) and three (3) years, re- 
spectively, as specified in their appointment. 

Each member of said board shall give a bond In the 
sum of five thousand (5,000) dollars, with sureties to be 
approved by the secretary of state, conditioned for the 
faithful performance of his duties, and shall take the oath 
provided by law for public officers. Vacancies upon said 
beard caused by death, resignation or expiration of the term 
of any member thereof, shall be filled by appointment from 
the same class of persons to which the deceased or retiring 
member belonged.. 

Sec. 3. Said board shall elect a president, secretary 
and treasurer: shall have its headquarters at the state can- 
itol; shall have a common seal, and the secretary and presi- 
dent shall have power to administer oaths. 

Sec. 4. Each member of said board shall receive a 
compensation of three (3) dollars per day for actual ser- 
vice, and ten (10) cents per mile for eacli mile actually 
traveled in attending the meetings of the board, which 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 61 



compensation shall be paid out of any moneys in the handa 
of the treasurer of said board; provided, that the said com- 
pensation and mileage shall in no event be paid out of 
the state treasury. 

Sec. 5. Said board shall report to the legislature of 
this state at each of its regular meetings a full statement 
of the receipts and disbursements of the board during the 
preceding two (2) years, a full statement of its doing and 
proceedings, and such recommendations as to it may seem 
proper, looking to the better carrying out of the intents 
and purposes of this act. ■■ 

Any moneys in the hands of the treasurer of said board 
at the time of making such report, in excess of two hundred 
and fifty (250) dollars, shall 'be paid over to the state treas- 
urer, to be kept by him for the future maintenance of the 
board and to be disbursed by him upon warrants signed by 
the president and treasurer of said board. 

Sec. 6. Said board shall hold public examinations at 
least four (4) times in each year in at least four (4) differ- 
ent cities in this state, at such times and places as it may 
determine, notice of such meetings to be given by a publi- 
cation thereof at least ten (10) days before such meetings, 
in the capital of the state and in the county where such 
meeting is to be held. 

Sec. 7. Every person now engaged in the occupation 
of barber in this state shall, within ninety (90) days after 
the approval of this act. file with the secretary of said 
board an affidavit setting forth his name, residence and the 
length of time during- which, and the places where he has 
practiced such occupation, and shall pay to the treasurer of 
said board one (1) dollar, and a certificate of registration 
entitling him to practice said occupation shall be issued to 
him. 

Sec. 8. Any person desiring to obtain a certificate of 
registration under this act shall make application to said 
board therefor and shall pay to the treasurer of said board 
an examination fee of five (5) dollars, and shall present 
himself at the next regular meeting of the board for the 
examination of applicants, whereupon said board shall pro- 
ceed to examine such person, and being satisfied that he is 
above the age of nineteen (19) years, of good moral char- 
acter, free from contagious or infectious diseases, has 
either (A) studied the trade for three (3) years as an ap- 
prentice under a qualified and practicing barber, or (B) 
studied the trade for at least three (3) years in a properly 
appointed and conducted barber school under the instruc- 
tions of a competent barber, or (C) practiced the trade in 
another state for at least three (3) years, and is possessed 
of the requisite skill in said trade to properly perform all 
the duties thereof, including his ability in the preparation 



62 \i\CKS B\RB P RS* Gl'IDF. 



of the tools, shaving, hair cutting and all the duties and 
services incident thereto, and is possessed of sufficient 
knowledge concerning the common diseases of the face and 
skin to avoid the aggravation and spreading thereof in the 
practice of said trade; his name shall be entered by the 
board in the register hereafter provided for, and a certifi- 
cate of registration shall be issued to him authorizing him 
to practice said trade in this state; provided, that whenever 
It appears that applicant has acquired his knowledge of said 
trade in a barber school, the board shall be judges of 
whether said barber school is properly appointed and con- 
ducted and under proper instruction to give sufficient train- 
ing in such trade. 

All persons making application for examination under 
the provisions of this act shall be allowed to practice the 
occupation of barbering until the next regular meeting of 
said board. 

Sec. 9. Nothing In this act shall prohibit any person 
from serving an apprenticeship in said trade under a bar- 
ber authorized to practice the same under this act, nor 
from serving as a student in any school for the teaching of 
such trade under the instruction of a qualified barber; pro- 
vided, that In no barber shop shall there be more than one 
apprentice to two (2) barbers authorized under this act to 
practice said occupation. 

Sec. 10. Said board shall furnish to each person to 
whom a certificate of registration is issued a card or insig- 
nia bearing the seal of the board and the signature of its 
president and secretary, certifying that the holder thereof 
is entitled to practice the occupation of barber in this state, 
and it shall be the duty of the holder of such card or in- 
signia to post the same in a conspicuous place in front of 
his working chair, where It may be readily seen by all 
persons whom he may serve. 

Sec. 11. Said board shall keep a register in which 
shall be entered names of all persons to whom certificates 
are issued under this act, and said register shall be at all 
times open to public inspection. 

Sec. 12. Said board shall have power to revoke any 
certificate of registration granted by it under this act for 
(A) conviction of crime; (B) habitual drunkenness for six 
(6) months immediately before a charge duly made; (C) 
gross incompetency, or (D) contagious or infectious dis- 
ease; provided, that before any certificate shall be so re- 
voked the holder thereof shall have notice in writing of 
the charge or charges against him. and shall at a day 
•specified in said notice, at least five (5) days after the serv- 
ice thereof, be given a public hearing and full opportunity 
to produce testimony in his behalf and to confront the wit- 
nesses against him. Any person whose certificate has been 



MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE 63 



so revoked may, after the expiration of ninety (90) days, 
apply to have the same regranted, and the same shall be 
regranted to him upon a satisfactory showing that the dis- 
qualification has ceased. 

Sec. 13. To shave or trim the beard or cut the hair 
of any person for hire or reward received by the person 
performing such service, or any other person, shall be con- 
strued as practicing the occupation of barber within the 
meaning of this act. 

Sec. 14. Any person practicing the occupation of bar- 
ber without having obtained a certificate of registration, 
as provided by this act, or wilfully employing a barber 
who has not such a certificate, or falsely pretending to be 
qualified to practice such occupation under this act, or vio- 
lation of any of the provisions of this act, is guilty of a 
misdemeanor and, upon conviction thereof, shall be pun- 
ished by a fine of not less than ten (10) dollars or more 
than one hundred (100) dollars, or by imprisonment in 
the county jail not less than ten (10) days or more than 
ninety (90) days. 

Sec. 15. This act shall take effect and be in force from 
and after its passage. 

Approved April 21, 1897. 

FURNISHINGS. 

Much could be said about furnishing the barber shop, 
and many hints offered for the sake of economy. If you 
proceed to furnish it one way and later on see that you 
have made mistakes — which every inexperienced man will 
do — and are compelled to refurnish to make things har- 
monize, then this alone is a costly error. It is like almost 
any other business — if you are going to have the best of 
everything, you must expect it to cost you a considerable 
sum. Necessary furniture and equippage, to say nothing 
of appendages, all increase the outlay. If you are deficient, 
as most beginners are, then you are compelled to begin 
on a small scale. However, before you buy a piece of fur- 
niture you should plan out some particular kind of shop, 
and, as you buy it piece at a time, add it to the first you 
buy. 

More and more is the labor of the barber lessened and 
made more productive by the invention and introduction 
of modern mechanical appliances. The hydraulic chair, 
with the roll paper head rest, compressed air, massage ma- 
chines in endless variety; electric registering machines to 
take the place of the old-time ''next;" shampoo hood, 
the new-tyle cash registers, handy bottles, and 
other good things too numerous to mention, all of which 
help to systematize the business. Enterprise means to un- 
dertake to perform something: difficult Progress means to 



64 MACK'S BARBERS GUIDE 



go forward with this undertaking, whether it be intellec- 
tual, moral or financial. Intellectual advancement is mere-, 
ly the progression of thought, and it seems that- where so- 
many are engaged in contriving, devising and- inventing, 
new and useful contrivances that the pupils of tonsorialism 
should at least make an effort to secure the necessary tools. 
and furnishings with which to conduct their business in a 
modern up-to-date manner; but there are scores of barbers 
who will not even try to do this. It has been said, and it 
is true, "You may as well shoot some people through the 
brains with a bullet as with a new idea," foi eithei would 
take th.ii life away. 

< hairs. 

The most prominent, most essential piece of furniture 
in the shop is the barber chair. Did you ever see a barbel 
shop without a chair? No; and you never will. You ought 
to know there has been a steady and marked improvement 
in barber chairs for the last twenty-five years, and that 
Ihere will be more improvements made in the future. If 
you are progressive you should keep posted as to what 
these improvements are. If you have been using the old- 
style stationary chair. or the one of a little later improve- 
ment — the revolving and reclining one — possibly you have' 
never made a study <n' chairs). So if you will look over the 
hydraulic line and make a careful study of it. your knowl- 
edge <<\' barber chairs will have a valuable chapter added 
to it. These chairs are being improved every day; new 
wrinkles are being introduced, and you must post yourself 
to make a success of your business. The advancement of 
civilization has helped to make the most of our monied 
Capitalists. Be civilized by keeping posted. Evolution 
moans going forward; means betterment a step day bj 
day, year by year, toward perfection, and this is the only 
Story of the hydraulic barber chair. No greater compli- 
ment could be paid them than the plain statement of the~ 
fact that the barber who uses these chairs endorses them 
most highly. In the first place, it is an attractive piece of 
furniture, and one that will lend an air of comfort and con- 
sequence to any shop, apart from its intrinsic value as an 
appliance of practical necessity. 

In purchasing chairs, buy the hydraulic with all its 
latest improvements. The pedestal base hydraulic leads 
today, and if you use it, you will have a combination of 
comfort for yourself and customer, and convenience for 
yourself and porter. If it is too low, you can raise it; if too 
high, you can lower it; if your light is poor, you can re- 
volve it; there are no legs for hair and dirt to accumulate 
on or under. Leather coverings for these chairs are recom- 
mended, as plush retains dust and dirt and after a 'few years 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE! 65 



of constant use the plush will begin to wear slick in places 
and look worn, while a good grade of leather will wear 
much longer, and can be kept clean easier. However, these 
coverings depend entirely upon taste, and if you have been 
accustomed to plush covered chairs, possibly you would not 
entertain the idea of changing to the leather coverings, but 
you should use them from a sanitary standpoint, if for no 
other. Eefore putting- the chair question up in the mug 
case, the roll paper headrest should be mentioned; it is a 
simple device attached to the headrest, holding a roll of 
paper; a strip of paper being torn off for each customer, 
makes it absolutely sanitary in that respect, as well as eco- 
nomical, as it saves laundry. 

Sitting chairs should match your barber chairs as much 
as possible, and in purchasing chairs, setees or stools, buy 
the best hardwood, with first class uphostering. 

COMBINATION CASES. 

Most mirror cases are made so that sections which 
fit perfectly may be added at any time, without extra cost, 
that is, without additional expense to the regular price of 
each section, although some are not. This is an importaint 
feature and is one that should not be lost sight of, for, as 
your business increases, your mirror case must be enlarged, 
if you have a case made at a great expense, remember that 
the additional cost will come in on all other sections added. 

Bath Rcoius, 

Path rooms, properly conducted, will pay any shop 
Where there is room to have them. Many people will come 
for baths who will have barber work done, who would go 
elsewhere to bathe if you did not have the bath rooms. 

If a man likes you well enough to bathe with you, there 
is no reason why you should not do his barber work, and 
vice versa. If he bathes with you regularly once a week and 
his barber bill amounts to only one dollar, you have in 
him a customer that will pay the expense of many more 
baths. In any shop of much importance a porter is a ne- 
cessity, and where the Lath trade is not too large, one por- 
ter can look after the baths and attend to his other duties, 
so you have very little extra expense for help. The only 
kind of baths which do not pay -are tin- neglected ones: 
the bath rooms where dust, dirt, tobacco spital and sluts- 
wool is allowed to accumulate until they are filthy. They 
must be light, clean and sanitary-looking, with a nice 
mirror and a clean comb and brush in them, a cuspidor 
and plnety of clothing racks. 

A good supply of hot water, as well as cold, is n< 
sary. Nothing aggravates one more than to run short or 



66 MACK'S BARBER'S GUIDE 



hot water when he wants a hot bath; so before you op»in 
bath parlors arrange to have a large enough heater and 
hot water tank to supply your tubs; better run just one 
bath room and run it right than to try to do too much. 
Plenty of clean towels, fresh soap and good brushes are as 
essential as water. Bath rooms should be kept warm at 
all times of the year, as some patrons may like a cold batn, 
but no one likes to dress in a cold room. 

Enamel the woodwork white, have the interior of the 
room finished light and cheerful, and hang a large mirror 
low enough so one can see when they are properly dressed. 

One small towel to use for a wash rag (some people do 
not like to use the public bath brush), and at least a couple 
of medium-sized, or a large Turkish towel to use for dry- 
ing. 

LINEN AND DRESS. 

Clotnes do not make the man; that is, they do not af- 
fect his character, but generally they help to improve his 
business, if they are correct. It certainly is a help to the 
man in public life to dress well, and in some classes neat 
dressing is very, very important; this is true of the barber. 

The average young barber, who has a good paying po- 
sition, usually spends enough money for clothes — in fact, 
he carries his bank account on his back — if he would only 
spend it discreetly. 

No one is well dressed who wears one suit of clothes 
all the time — that is, until it is worn out. You should have 
a change of suits just the same as a change of underwear. 
The reason why society men generally look stylish is not 
because their clothes are so much better than others, but 
because they have someone to take care of them. About as 
many clothes are spoiled off the back as on, for eight hours 
on a peg or nail will put a coat out of shape more than 
eight hours on the shoulders. A coat hanger is the cheap- 
est investment a man can. make, as it is one that will pay 
the largest percentage on the money invested. 

A man should always have on hand a couple of nice 
everyday suits for business wear alone, besides a better one 
for special occasions. Two suits worn time about until 
they are worn out will look much better than to buy them 
one at a time and wear one continually; whether they last 
any longer is difficult to say, but we should consider the 
looks equally as much as the wearing qualities, and by 
having a change you can keep yourself looking half-way 
respectable. There are some barbers, like other business 
men — they think flannel shirts and colored duck overall* 
(or any other substance to cover up their nakedness) suffi- 
ciently perfect for them to wear. This is not true; the bar- 
ber should dress and look well to succeed in business; ho 



MACK'S BARBF.RS* GUIDE. 67 

should be clean and neat in his business suit, as well as 
his shop or work dress. It is a fact that many patrons 
have been driven from shops, owing to a lack of personal 
cleanliness of the barber, or of using soiled lined upon 
them. Soiled towels should be removed daily and hung 
up to dry, for if they are kept damp for days at a time 
they soon rot. In most all cities there are linen supply 
companies who furnish the barbers linen at a small addi- 
tional cost on* each laundry, but where there is money in 
It for them to stand the wear of towels, there is generally 
money in it for you to own your own towels. If you use 
1000 towels per week and it costs you only 10 cents per 
hundred more to have them laundered than it would if 
you owned them yourself, you can easily figure out that 
$52 worth of the same kind of linen will last you longer 
than a year, if care is taken of- it. A shop should have 
towels enough so it would only need to laundry once a 
week; they should be counted every time they are sent and 
every time they come from the wash. When the laundry- 
man looses your laundry, a claim should be made at once 
to avoid trouble. 

SHOP DRESS. 

Aprons have been and are now used by some, but they 
are not exactly in good taste, as butchers wear aprons, and 
barbers are too suggestive of butchers (not casting any 
reflections on butchers) without wearing aprons. However, 
the shopman should wear something to distinguish him 
from the "common herd," and perhaps a few hints on this 
subject would not go amiss. 

If you desire to make a hit with the public, adopt 
some uniform costume. Should you decide on black, then 
wear black exclusively. Black coats, ties, trousers and 
shoes. Fashions may come and go, but uniformity in bar- 
bers' work dress has and always will, favorably impress the 
public. And the immaculate white costume is by far the 
most popular that can be worn, have the entire dress pure 
white and keep it white, shoes and all. If your business la 
not as progressive as it should be, and you know of no 
other way to attract attention, try this complete white 
costume, keeping it spotless and, if you have the right kind 
of workmen, an increase in patronage Is sure to follow. 

If you wish to inform every customer who enters your 
place the name of your shop, have the name worked on 
the jacket of each workman, also on all linen, bath towels 
and haircloths. 

BOTTLES AND SHAVING MUGS. 

Not lending any encouragement to the "would-be- 
jpster." but do you think toilet water or hair tonic would 



6S MACK'S BARBERS' GLIDE 

feel as gratifying to your face or head squirted from a 
Catsup bottle as it would from a neat, attractively labeled 
one? No! Not if you could see it. A nice set of bottles 
or vases, bright in color and modern in design, impress a 
customer favorably the moment he enters the Shop; they 
also help to make everything else seem more pleasing; 
nothing adds more to the attractiveness of a mirror case 
(ouside of the mirrors) than the glass or silverware used 
upon the shelf. Silverware, if kept perfectly elean. presents 
a very rich appearance and is not quite so expensive as 
many imagine, when you take into consideration the fact, 
that more or h ss glassware will be broken while the silver- 
ware will never break. If you purchase silverware, do not 
forget to have the firm name or initial letter engraved upon 
all you purchase; the cost will be small if anything, and you 
would have something that would be a source of pleasure 
to yourself, as well as an advertising medium for your 
shop. 

Fixtures of this kind will readily .-ell should you wish 
to dispose of your business. Artistic stand bottles are very 
appropriate for the modern shop. The low white stand bot- 
tles with flower decorations, landscapes and animal scenes 
are quite popular also, while tie Bohemian glassware 
should not be overlooked, some has ornamentations of ster- 
ling silver inlaid upon the glass, while some have rich gold 
decorations, with flowers thoroughly burred in so it will 
last for many years. 

Shaving paper vases, towel urns, powder bowls, talcum 
powder sifters, brilliantine bottles, ash cups, pomade jars. 
cream and antiseptic receptacles, all con:,, under this head 
and Should not he h.st track of. 

Ml WING MUGS. 

Should barbers encourage the use of private shaving 
mugs? Yes: Too much time will not le spent in looking 
after individual cups if they are kept in the most conve- 
nient place and a little forethought and attention given 
them. A man who owns the mug and brush usually shaves 
Where he keeps it, and a sure sign of a steady patronage 
is a large cup case filled with individual mugs. They are 
a little extra work, that's true, but We should not let little 
things like that trouble us. Each workman in the shop 
should take a pride in using his customer's mug, and he 
should gently remind his regular customers— if they havt. 
no mug or brush — that it would be nice and popular to 
own their own outfit. As far as the sanitary effect is con- 
cerned, it does not "cut much ice," for if a man is clean 
and careful he will not spread disease, but the looks of it. 
and the extra dimes that the individual shaving mug brings 



MACK'S BARBER5' GUIDE 69 



to the shop is the question to consider. Place the mug 
case near the wash basin. 

CIGARS. 

A far greater percentage of the patrons of barber 
shops smoke, and in shops which do a large enough volume 
of business to employ a cashier, a line of cigars will pay. 
Keep an assortment of the best sellers, and study the meth- 
ods of taking care of them. In small shops where the bar- 
ber must stop work at his chair to sell cigars, there is not 
much in them, for during the busiest times is when you 
would sell the most, and it is not business-like to stop 
shaving a man to sell something to someone else. 

COMPRESSED AIR. 

Compressed air is used for many purposes, but just 
when it first became useful in the barber shop cannot be 
found. One who has never used it in the barber shop is 
not able to explain the pleasantness derived from having 
toilet water sprayed evenly over their face, or from having 
their hair dried after a shampoo. 

It is a lotion economizer, a time saver and an addition 
well worth installing in any shop of any importance. Most 
everyone likes it in summer time, if it is used properly. In 
spraying the face do not stick the spray close up against 
the patron's face or mouth; you take his breath away, and 
if he is unaccustomed to it you will turn him against it at 
once. Begin gradually and spray the lotion evenly over the 
face; you can do better and quicker work than by applying 
it with your hand. When using your hand, if you wet the 
entire face and are not very careful, some of the lotion 
will go in and around the ears, and some of it will trickle 
down the neck. All this causes more time to be taken in 
drying the face; you can dry the face or hair quicker with 
it than with a fan, and the cost of running an air pump is 
light. 

When installing an air outfit, buy a pump large enough 
to give you plenty of pressure, and purchase the large 
spray bottles with the metal ferrules. When the threads 
on the spray tube wear, so it does not screw tight, use tire 
tape to wrap it with; this makes it airtight and prevents 
the contents of the bottle from spattering out. All lotions 
used with the spray should be filtered and perfectly free 
from dregs, as small particles stop up the tube. 

LIGHTS, NATURAL. AM) ARTIFICIAL. 

Lights play just as important a part as any fixture in 
the shop; in fact, more, for without lights at night you 
would need no fixtures. Natural light is to !><> valued more 



70 MACK'S BARBERS' GUiDL 

than artificial, but often shops are in basements or narrow, 
dark places, where natural light never has full sway. In 
these shops especially is where the most complete methods 
of lighting is important. Up-to-date people take advantage 
of new ideas. Something new is offered for sale and they 
buy it when it is better and cheaper than what they for- 
merly used — electricity for instance; this is not a new kind 
of light at all, but the new styles of shades, globes, prisms 
and reflectors used to modify it and change its effects upon 
the eyes, all go to make it more like natural light. 

The distributing of light is more important than to 
have more lights than are necessary. We should always 
have the light come from one side of us or over our shoul- 
ders, and never directly in front of us. The eye is too deli- 
cate an organ to be trifled with; more than that, a poorly 
lighted place is a bad way to advertise; still we must se- 
cure as much light at as small a cost as possible. Com- 
mon tin reflectors are the cheapest means of increasing a 
small supply to brilliancy, and when not too near the work- 
men, do not overtax the eye. Gooseneck fixtures extend- 
ing over the chairs from directly in front of the mirror 
serve double purpose, as the mirror reflects and shows two, 
Instead of one lamp. 

Natural gas, gasoline, oil and air, and many others, are 
all used, any of which beat the old-time oil lamps. The 
light question has become one of great diversification, and 
although the incandescent lamp still dominates the field of 
interior lighting, it is difficult to predict what will ma- 
terialize In the future. 

SIGVS. 

Aside from the regular pole or fixture on the outside 
of the shop, an attractive window sign is necessary to set 
off the front and show the passerby where to "head In." 
The name of the firm and proprietor is all that is neces- 
sary, or on the door glass may be: "Barber Shop En- 
trance"; "Entrance to Shop," or some such words, in small, 
neat letters. Electric signs are fine trade attractors to be 
used after dark. 

A neat sign in each bath room, with a small bottle of 
toilet water, or a powdered antiseptic to be used in the 
bath, will help to improve your bath trade. The sign is 
only to explain the use of the antiseptic which you provide 
for the bath gratis. 

Use small signs for selling supplies by giving a brief 
description of them, their merits, cost, etc. 

Signs made especially for singeing, explaining the good 
produced by it, will bring you many extra jobs. The same 
applies to tonics; these silent signs talk while you work. 

A regular "Barber Shop Bill <»f Fare" is something 






MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 71 



that will cause much comment, and there should be one in 
every shop. It is something which is not absolutely neces- 
sary, but at the same time quite an attraction if arranged 
nicely, framed and hung in a conspicuous place; will not 
only please yourself, but save answering questions, and be 
a money maker for the shop. Men will come into the shop 
expecting to have only a plain shave, when they will see 
the numerous other shop accommodations listed on the 
bill of fare — which they really need — and spend a dollar, 
Possibly if they had not seen the bill they Would have 
stopped at the price of a shave. 

When arranging this bill, always put the price opposite 
each piece of work, as shown in the following: 

BARBER SHOP BILL OF FARE. 

Haircut I .35 

Haircut — Children's 2 5 

Haircut — Pompadour 50 

Shave 15 

Shampoo . 25 

Shampoo — Fresh Egg 35 

Shampoo — Dry .25 

Seaf oam 15 

Tonic 10 

Face Lotion 10 

Singeing 25 

Beard Trim 25 

Massage — Hand 35 

Massage — Machnie 35 

Head Massage 26 

Bath 25 

Bath — Turkish 1.50 

Manicure 50 

Razors Honed 50 

Razors Ground 1 . 00 

Dyeing— Mustache 50 

Dyeing — Beard 1.60 

Dyeing — Hair 3.50 

Some people will see more work on this list than they 
ever thought of for a barber shop, while this is not as 
much as some shops are prepared to take care of. Where 
you have a special tonic, face cream, or any particular 
thing which you wish to sell, list it also. Keep this "Bill 
of Fare" hanging in a place where the most people will 
see it, or at times it may be wise to hang it in the window; 
this gives the passerby a chance to read it. On days when 
the shop is closed, the window is the very place for it, 

WASH STANDS OR BASINS. 

The location of the wash stand is the most important 



'72 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



thing that could be said about it. When individual basins 
arc not used for each chair, the basin should be as conve- 
nient for all workmen as possible, as muc'i time can be 
taken up walking to and from the chair. The workman 
must walk to the basin three times and back in giving a 
first-class shave; if his chair is twenty feet from the basin, 
he walks one hundred and twenty feet every time he 
shaves one man; in the course of a big day's work he may 
work on sixty men; this would mean, approximately, seven 
thousand two hundred feet, or over a mile. While walk- 
ing this distance some money could be taken in; so install 
your wash basins near the workmen, even though you are 
compelled to put in two or more. 

Water taps should never be left running, as a small 
leakage wears the balls and packing. 

FLOOR COVERINGS. 

Hardwood floors, waxed, are easily kept in a sanitary 
condition, and the owner of the building pays for them. 
Rubber mats may be used on these floors, with strips of 
linoleum laid over the part of the shop which has the most 
walking done on it. Tiling has the lead for elegance; it 
wears well, and is easily kept clean, but is very expensive. 
If you have a tiled floor you should keep mats of some kind 
for the barbers to stand on. 

Inlaid linoleum of the best quality, if you pick a pretty 
pattern, one which is easily cleaned, is durable and shows 
a place off well. A pattern of inlaid has the figure stamped 
all the way through and it looks almost as good as new 
after years of wear, if kept perfectly clean. The cheaper 
grades of linoleum are easier to clean, but they will not 
wear so long. 

Milk is the best thing to use on linoleum to preserve 
it, as it keeps it soft and pliable, and prevents it cracking, 
to a certain extent. Wash it clean, then apply the milk, 
drying afterwards. 

CASH REGISTERS AND CHECK SYSTEMS. 

As the nation progresses systems and methods change 
in every way imaginable. If some of the firms throughout 
our country employed the same system of handling cash 
now as they did a quarter of a century ago, what a num- 
ber of cashiers and accountants they would be compelled 
to employ! Cash registers of some kind have been used 
for an indefinite period, but' the latest improvements are 
more precise and accurate than the old ones; if they were 
not they would not be improvements. A register of some 
kind is needed where more than one barber works, if it 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE. 73 

is nothing more than a check system which consists of 
different colored or different shaped checks for each bar- 
ber working-. There is no way for you to tell the amount 
of cash business a man does without checks, unless you 
let him make his own change, and this is not a good sys- 
tem. Few men care to do this, should you give them the 
privilege. The best way to prevent "hold-outs" or mis- 
takes is to limit the handling of the funds to one person, 
and that particular person should be absolutely honest, as 
well as accurate in every detail. It is just as great a loss 
to you if your cashiers are absentminded and inaccurate, 
and are constantly making mistakes, as it would be for 
them to be exact change-makers and steal from you. In 
shops where there is a good trade for five or more barbers 
it pays to have a cashier, or one who sells cigars, handles 
the funds and keeps the books. 

Each workman's checks should be colored differently, 
so as to designate them from the others, and they should 
be numbered on the back; then he could tell at any time, 
by glancing at his checks, just how much work he had 
done. Without numbering them, the workman must count 
every check in his rack and then deduct the ones taken 
out. No one will work for you long if they know the cash- 
ier is holding out their checks and not giving- them credit 
for all they do. 

Miscellaneous Fixtures. 

Hat and coat racks, umbrella stands, clocks, tables 
and all miscellaneous furnishings should harmonize with 
other furniture. 

Every shop should have a nice timepiece hung in the 
most noticeable place in the shop. Pictures and paintings 
set off a place if they are the suitable kind, but the in- 
terior of a shop can easily be spoiled by decorating the 
walls with cheap advertisements and calendars. A perfect 
hand mirror is one of the most necessary conveniences 
that can be added to a workman's kit, and is one wnieb no 
painstaking haircutter can afford to be without. After cut- 
ting a head of hair, always show the customer the back 
of his head, then he will have no cause to complain after 
leaving the shop. 

If he does not like the haircut, the only time he could 
well afford to say anything about it, would be when you 
asked him if it was all right. 

BROOMS, BRUSHES AND MOPS, 

Tools of tidiness, these may be called. The selection 
Of proper ones is not so easy for the inexperienced buyer, 
nor are they easily kept in proper shape. Brooms for 
sweeping sidewalks and dusting off clothes should be made 



74 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 

of broom-corn, while a hair or bristle brush is the only 
practical apparatus for linoleum, rubber mats or smooth- 
surfa< ed floors, A stiff whisk broom will, without e .traor- 
dinary care, ruin a fine hat and not clean it good either, 
but with a good bristle brush you may clean them thor- 
oughly without damaging in the least. Straw brooms should 
be placed with the handle down, or they should te hung 
up. Never place a broom on the straw end. When using u. 
bristle sweeping brush ycu will notice the holes for the 
bandies on each side of the ) rush; these are to change the 
handle so that the bristles will not become bent or limp. 
Changing preserves the bristles. 

Hair brushes and brooms arc more expensive than 
straw, but are much more practical for sweeping smooth 
floors, as they remove all dust and hair, and do not leave 
streaks of dust; a large room may be swept in half the time 
with a good bristle broom it would take to sweep it with a 
Mi.iw broom. A small, short-handled broom should be kept 
to sweep the corners, and under the immovable fixtures. 
Use gasoline to clean any kind of a bristle broom. Mop 
rags should be of a thick, absorbant cloth; flannels or old 
blankets make good ones. The mop cloth should be 
cleaned and wrung dry, after using, then hung up loosely 
to dry; this prevents souring and decay. Cleaning powders 
are best for mop water, as they dissolve quicker than soap, 

WINDOW WASHERS, 

Tlie bristle or hair window washer should be' 
s qu< ezed as dry as possible before putting away after using/ 
as neglect to do this will soon cause the bristles to drop 
out. or sometimes swell and split the wood part of the 
brush. Dry the rubber cleaner before putting- away. Tak- 
ing care of the little things helps to make the businers sue- 
cessful. 

HOW TO CONDUCT THE BUSINESS, 

Management. 

One of the greatest drawbacks to the barter business", 
after you have become a good workman, is the absolute 
necessity of closely watching the business, and for this 
reason it seems that barber shop syndicates are at l^ast a 
partial failure. As a rule the owners or owner cannot 
leave it with advantage for a single moment. Take a man- 
ufacturing business for instance: shoe. gun. implement, 
candy, or most any kind of manufactory, the head of the 
concern can go away for a day or a week, and if business 
keeps up things move on about the same. This is due to 
the fact that the man who makes the shoes, guns, imple- 
ment-', candy, etc., must turn out a certain amount of work. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 75 

of an exact grade, i n a required amount of time, for the 
moment he slights his work he is delected by the inspec- 
tor; besides this, in many manufacturing plants the ma- 
chinery is everything, the man merely feeding and guiding 
the machine. 

'this is why in ordinary linos of trade the owner can 
leave the business without running a risk of failure; in the 
ordinary store, too, the owner can be absent some time 
without causing bankruptcy, as the service is of a limited 
kind. For example, you go into a dry goods or grocery 
More, you (all tor clothing in the dry goods store, for sugar, 
coffee and the like in the grocery, and the clerk merely 
supplies you with these goods; the owner is supposed to 
keep a reliable stock of goods, and in no way can the 
clerk hurt the business, unless he is personally impolite. 
This cannot be said about the barber business, for the 
service given in the shop is of a particularly personal na- 
ture, and the men working for you can build up your trade, 
or easily tear down what you have worked hard to estab- 
Jish, and without being impolite, too. Being perfectly 
polite will not remove a man's whiskers. Shaving is very 
personal work, and is somewhat like music. There are 
many pupils Who play fine pieces of classical music on 
different instruments, note by note, but the beauties of the 
piece are only revealed when the master's hand is on the 
instrument. The pupil will mechanically pound it out, 
\*hik the really musical mind brings out its beauty and 
gives it individuality; and so it is with the barber busi- 
ness, especially the shaving. Regardless of ail that has 
been said to make fun of the idea, "a high class barber is 
an artist in every sense of the term." It is true, too. 
that owing to an increase in wages, shorter hours, and es- 
pe< ially owing to the fact that the barber business is now 
being recognized as a practical high-class trade, as the 
men who are taking it up are improving day by day, and 
in time it is to be hoped that possibly the proprietor of 
the barber shop will be rated on a higher commercial 
basis, and the boss barber will be more of a personal su- 
pervisor or overseer than he has been in the past, or is at 
tin- present. 

To be an optimist is to be hopeful. It has been said 
that some people are born that way, while others become 
optimistic because they prosper. To prosper we must 
thoroughly understand our business, for pessimism has 
spread her pall over some of the shops, just because they 
would not estimate for themselves. 

NECESSARY QT UJITC \TIOXS. 

To manage a shop properly one should be at least a 
fair workman, of polished manners, refined in behavior. 



76 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



courteous to a degree, and condescending at times. Do 
not be of a haughty carriage, or of a mean, contemptible, 
arguing disposition. "Truth and justice are the founda- 
tions of legitimate trade." There are many new things in 
the world, but there are no new morals or new truths; we 
need not try to invent them, for more than likely we would 
do better if we would remember those we have. It can 
certainly do no harm to occasionally repeat or call to 
mind those reflections, which, though old, should forever 
be paramount: "Let truth and justice reign," for any 
business not founded on these principles will sooner or 
later fail. A dishonest or dishonorable business man is 
seldom, if ever, permanently successful; while the thor- 
oughly honest man can generally demand all the credit 
and capital his business requires; he will have the confl- 
dence of his customers, and his trade will increase as the 
years go by. "You cannot hold a good man down always." 
Push is a very necessary qualification in these com- 
ix liner- times, as this is an era when things are moving with 
a tremendous energy. Talent, industry and good judgment 
off .n fail, simply from lack of push; while at times it will 
make up for great deficiencies. Use good judgment. Most 
every one complains of their poor memory; out few com- 
plaints are made of defective judgments, Man's judgment 
i^ part of his fortune, so you can be energetic and indus- 
trious enough to waste time, unless this qualification is 
well applied. Large enterprises should be built on large 
and liberal plans. Judgment may not create so much en- 
thusiasm as emotion, but it will stay longer. It is easy for 
some people to be optimistic when all goes right, but op- 
timism turns away when they become the least bit disap- 
pointed or discouraged. So use good judgment; use it in 
selecting a location, especially if you have two or more 
places to choose from. If you have the fixtures, or can get 
them on easy payments, as most of you can by making a 
determined effort, choose a leading thoroughfare, if in a 
city; or if in a small town, the principal street. When you 
can get the location in the business part of the city or town, 
do not by any means start your business away out of the 
business district, on account of the little higher rent; bet- 
ter pay double the rent for a place where you are near 
;i large number of business people than be off on a side 
street. Difference in rent alone, when brought down to an 
actual day's expenses, will be found to amount to a very 
little; yet on the other hand, sec the difference in the 
thoroughfare and the country road, or side street. Possibly 
from one hundred to one thousand are almost constantly 
passing and repassing, where your shop is located on the 
principal street, while on the less prominent one, from one 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 77 

to a dozen. Use good judgment before you obligate your- 
self, in the way of making payments on anything you pur- 
chase, for here is where everything depends on the most 
accurate figuring, and this part of the business cannot be 
treated approximately, because any error in figuring may 
result in very provoking and expensive mistakes. 

The business men, or boys, are the ones you will make 
the most money from. If there is no business about a man 
or boy, rest assured that there is not much money about 
him. To secure their patronage you should have a handy 
location and keep the workmen (good ones, too) ever 
ready to accommodate your patrons. 

Good memory is one of the most valuable aids in the 
business. You should cultivate it. for nothing outside the 
work you give him will prove to please a new acquaintance 
more than to call him by name. Ask him how he is, and 
treat him as an old patron, one whose trade is wanted and 
appreciated. If you have forgotten his name and are com- 
pelled to address him in an unacquainted manner, the 
chances are he will go elsewhere for his next haircut or 
shave. Of course, there are exceptions; some men do not 
want to know your name. Why should they? You are 
only a barber. Never tell these men your name until 
asked, but try and make their acquaintance to show them 
your high esteem for them. If you are acquainted with 
only a small percentage of the people who are regular at- 
tendants of the shop you are employed in, see how much 
advantage you have over the new unacquainted barber. To 
form acquaintances you must be civil to a degree and have 
a good memory; and to have a good memory you should 
cultivate and cherish it. Do not lose your temper; if you 
do, you lose your memory. 

Politeness and good address are quite necessary. You 
should be polite naturally. Don't put on; for the man 
who is really great is willing to leave the discovery to 
others. Swell shops, tip-top locations, good 

work and courteousness are the means of producing- good 
results. A shop where the proprietor and journeyman un- 
derstand their business, and all possess a kind and polite 
bearing, will always be popular and command the trade 
of the better class of people. 

Be earnest. In this respect there are two distinct 
types of barbers; one who has an earnest and untiring de- 
sire to further his own, as well as his employer's interests. 
The other drags through the day and comes to life just 
at closing time. This fellow cannot even impersonate ear- 
nestness, so that the dullest patron of the shop will fail to 
distinguish him from the real workman. Be polite in 
little things; no matter how trivial the inquiries made of 



78 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 

you seem to be, they should be answered in a pleasant 
manner, and to the best of your ability. Many times cus- 
tomers will ask questions which are quite annoying and of 
very little consequence to y.ai. when you do not feel dis- 
posed to carry on a conversation, but you should show no 
vexation. Here is where self-control predominates. The 
first -virtue is to restrain the tongue; as you approach near- 
est to good when yen ate silent, even if you know you are 
in the right. 

lie of Good Address. 

[f you are of good address and show a" genial and 
obliging disposition, a great many people will believe you 
have a fair education, whether you have it or not. Cour- 
age is indispensible in this as well as in any other business; 
it is required to keep you living within your means, and to 
pay your debts; it is required to t< 11 a man you cannot or 
will not credit him. In one word, if you lack courage, 
never try t-> run a business; let someone else manage it. 

Economy is very essential also, it is easier to make 
money than it is to save it. Keep your credit good by using: 
it as sparingly ns possible. These and many other qualifi- 
cations are of importance. 

How to Make a Shop Pay, 

You should have al leasl sufficient furniture and fix- 
tures to assure comfort and convenience for yourself and 
customers, also plenty of reom. Feme men do not lik<* 
to he shaved where others are pushing: and crowding so 
near the barber who holds the keen razor; they become 
nervous. Be sure to have space enough to prevent press- 
ing. Make an imposing display of your tonics, soaps, pow- 
ders and supplies in general, anything you have for sale 
or use. Keep them in neat, attractive show cases, or ar- 
range them upon shelves. Enterprising barbers can dis- 
pose of a large amount of these goods with very little 
effort, and this enterprise, coupled with civil and honor- 
nble treatment, will often secure new customers, both for 
supplies and for work, who will beeome permanent, for 
people are bound to go where they are well used. Judi- 
cious advertising is something that will pay you well. 
Why shouldn't it? FM'd you ever know of a man in busi- 
ness who advertised as little as barbers? (Read chapters 
on advertising.) 

If you are conducting a business for another, then he 
should see that you have the necessities with which to- 
carry on the business. Should you run short of things 
that seem indispensable, do not become irritated ami 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 79 



complain to customers; they do not want to hear your 
troubles. If your employer is of the enter-. rising kind 
he is sure to equip the shop with the best his circum- 
stances will allow. 

A strictly sanitary ship is what you should conduct, 
whether it be for yourself or for some one else, and to do 
this you must become a walking sanitary inspector, keep- 
ing cleanliness forever paramount in your mind. There 
is no getting around the fact that the barber shop is one 
of the easiest places to catch disease if it is not operated 
upon a strictly sanitary system. Consumptives, and other 
victims of malignant and contagious diseases, enter your 
shop, and often you work on them unawares. Now this 
era of progressiveness we live in at present, and are going 
to live in, demands sanitary regulations. Disinfectants, 
germicides, antiseptics and sterilizers. Use a germicide in 
your water used for bathing purposes; have no toilet 
waters, tonics, face lotions or creams about you that are 
not thoroughly antiseptic- Keep a sterilizer filled with 

sterilizing fluid for your tools. Keep these things, whether 
there is a state law that compels you to or net. Modern 
tonsorialism demands that you understand the germ 
theory, as well as the proper use of antiseptics and ger- 
micides. 

When you fcrm a habit of using these goods, you 
enrich your own sjpply of condfience in your business, 
and that is something which holds many good men back. 
Lack of self-confidence, some barbers fear as they would 
a drink of water. To develop this confidence, exercise the 
mental powers more, for all comes from the mind. The 
exercise of mind should be no mere occupation of leisure 
hours, but a sacred and e\er~present duty, because moral 
error is only intellectual error translated into act, and 
if we live truthfully and honestly, we must first rid our- 
selves of ignorance and folly. Do not think yourself too 
young to accomplish anything reasonable, for you are not; 
just as soon as you begin to think seriously, you begin to 
be of more service to your fellow men. Long since youth 
has ceased to be censured, and history has already 
heralded some of the greatest achievements of progression, 
and followed them up with names of young men. 

"True worth exists wherever man has a heart thai 
y.arns for goodness," and "one man and honesty makes a 
majority." 

The barber, who by years of hard work, anxious 
thought and self-denial, finally builds up a large and sub- 
stantial business, will generally hold his own through life, 
as the qualities and principles that enabled him to build 
up his business, now fully developed in his manhood, will 
keep him fully abreast of the liveliest competition, and in- 



MACK'S BARBERS" GUIDE 

him against losses through speculation for he con- 
tinually desires prominence, and as "desire" measures the- 
world for all of us, it measures for him accordingly. 

ACCUMULATION. 

The rainy day must come to all of us. and you must 
either provide for it or "stay out in the rain." You may 
think you can dodge it. but you cannot — only by dying 
young. It is no doubt tetter for a man to die young than 
to reach that stage in life known as "poverty stricken old 
but there is no cause for either, as there is plenty 
<»f everything all around us and all we need to do is to - 
iti one place, accumulate and become great. 

Some of the most prominent men of history traveled 
little, still they were men who studied deeply and their 
brah s were a thousand times more accurate than the 
wai rber, who tires of a town, picks up his duds 

and •hit-; the pike," just as he begins to accumulate. 
Travel is a good educator, and if one is a close observer, 
it is one of the best ways to inform one's self on or about 
anything; but to travel properly one must spend much 
money, and this you cannot do unless you have a \ 
to call home; a place where tin- income is more than th - 
outgo. 

To move around and change homes, simply t< 
the sights, is folly, for there is no sight S' - the 

od bank account. and the perfect ease of 
- that you stand well with your fellowmen There 
i< altogether too much moving around in the barber busi- 
es both among the bosses and journeymen, for the ma- 
jority to accumulate much. 

To tit up a modern barber shop nowadays costs about 
as much as to prepare a young man for a profession. 
True, tlie compensation has increased eonsiderably, but 
whether it has increased in like | . is hard to 

say. The barber of the past was blessed with low rent. 
cheap labor and ordinary appliances: it did not take much 
an investment for him to have the best. Patrons in 
those days were not so particular. The barber used one 
towel as long as he pleased, and that was as long as the 
absorbant qualities of the cloth held out. A little diluted 
lay rum was used to burn them with after shaving, and 
a block of magnesia to starch them with after burning: 
sal soda, soap and water produced the shampoo, and in 
some places sand was used on the floor so the customer 
could use the whole floor for a spittoon, but now all has' 
changed and it is apt to change much more in the future. 
■You may fool some of the people all the time, and you 
may fool all of them some times, but you cannot fool all 
the people all the time." It will not work. The good old 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 81 



days, when a man got together a back-breaking, carpet- 
covered old chair, a couple of razors, a pair of shears, a 
bottle of bay rum and a looking glass; opened a barber 
shop and made a living out of it, are gone. We may 
never see them again; we certainly waste time in waiting 
for them anyway. To amount to much in the eyes of 
your friends and to lay aside money you must be making- 
it. As said before, to fit up a modern shop, it takes a lot 
of money, but when you are putting money into that shop 
you are laying it away for the rainy day, i. e., if you in- 
vest it in modern, serviceable fixtures. 

What makes the leading surgeon, or the leaders in 
any other trades or professions prominent? The disag- 
nosing of disease; the use of modern appliances and a 
practical knowledge of treating the patients. The same 
knowledge is necessary to make a leading barber; you 
must be a genius to hold your own in the fierce race for 
first honor, which now goes on in the barber business. 
The shop is a kind of a hodge-podge now; a combination 
of barber shop, drug store, machine shop, library, somk- 
ing room and parlor; so tit up your place with everything 
to make it convenient and modern, or get out of the busi- 
ness and work for somebody who does- 
How to Manage Workmen. 

To handle men in a manner that their labor makes 
money for you and themselves, is what all would like to 
be able to do; but few out of the entire population have 
solved this problem. Some few, however, have learned 
the system, and where they have, they have been elevated 
from the ranks of ordinary labor to the counting houses 
of millionaires. These men usually bear the earmarks of 
self-condfience, determination, prudence and good judg- 
ment They have a system, and to work for them you 
must abide by their system. They are the positive men; 
they are men of strong characters, who are constantly 
desiring and continually attracting to them just what they 
desire. When you come in contact with them in a busi- 
ness way they seem to exert an influence over you; in other 
words, their presence seems to permeate the whole atmos- 
phere. This is just the kind of a character you must be 
to handle workmen. The reason some proprietors cannot 
hande men. is not because they pay them poorly; not on 
account of being liberal with them, but because they have 
no system or no established rules by which they and their 
men should work. 

Most barbers work on a commission, and son: 
them conceive the idea that they must get all the money 
in sight, but you must try to show them that this is a n 
t iken idea. Show them that the one who finds out whal 



82 MACKS BARBERS' GLIDE 

a customer wants done, and just how he wants it done, 
and gives him that ser\ice, is invariably the one who has 
the most coming at the end of the week. Some workmen 
spend their money so fast that they do not realize how 
ruch they make: some don't stop to think that twenty 
dollars per week is an average salary of $86.66 2-3 per 
month the year around, and if you. their employer, do 
not keep a close account and remind them of the fact, 
they think they arn working- for only eighty dollars per 
month. 

You should keep the most minute account of all ex- 
penses, and have rules and regulations to govern them 
with. Th« Don'ts. Rule? and Maxims given in another 
place will, if lived up to. help you to manage your work- 
man. 

Some journeymen, if managed correctly, can make much 
more money working for you than they could working for 
rbemselves. for they are good barbers, but poor managers. 
When a man does not know how to manage a business he 
Is much better off working for some one who does, for 
sibilities only set him farther back- 

When you have a good man working for you. that 
- _ >od in any particular line, don't be backward about 
asking him for sugg Remember that even the por- 

:er has thoug - his thought? may make you dollars. 

When you conduct a business I for a'l the money 

there is in it. but when you want recreation lay aside 
business. 

If you ;i ; - d barber and have a gfO >el trade, you 

are lavish in the use of towels, for the- public likes fine, 
clean linen and plenty of it. Now. if you can give orders 
not to be snaring with the linen, which costs you some- 
thing, why can you not be liberal with kind words, which 
rarely ever ccsts you anything? It is true that kindness 
is wasted on some workmen, but very few though. The 
average man will, in course of time, respond to kind words 
and do more work and better work than he will for a 
contemptible, arguing, bigoted foreman or manager. 

Kindness should not stop at the shoo either. If you 
dish out counterfeit kindness to y.ur employes while in 
the shop, and then speak of them as below you while 
among your social acriuaintances. you may as well tell 
them to their faces, as it is sure to reach them. It may 
deceive a few for a short time, but ficticious knidness will 
not pass current long. People will soon learn that it is 
fakey. So when you speak kind words, speak them from 
your heart. 

The best way to have them come from your heart is 
for you to feel and know that when you pay your men at 
the ond of the week, that paying th^m alonr- ,io<- s nor 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 83 



charge your whole obligation toward them. You owe them 
appreciation, praiee and respect. Don't be cross and crabbed 
toward anyone: if they really offend you and it is entirely 
their fault, speak out, for then you can speak with reason. 
Don't keep a "sore-head" in the shop: there is always 
trouble. He makes extra work for the porter and extra 
expense for you. He is constantly sowing "dissatisfae- 
tion seed" in your place. Be firm and business-like, but 
don't be pouty, and don't allow your men to be that way. 
If you have one that is bad, get rid of him. 

Don't jump at conclusions and pout, merely because 
you think you have been offended, for imaginary offence 
breeds sore-headness. while real offense is often the fore- 
runner of words and quarrels. 

Hon to Handle Patrons. 

Good service and nice shops alone will not build up 
a large business. If one man loses his turn in your ship. 
it does not make much difference how good the service 
is, you will probably loose his custom. In shops where 
customers are constantly pouring in and cut, the work- 
man cannot without some system keep track of "who Is 
next." If a patron goes away from your shop, thinking 
he has lost his turn, it is almost as bad for you had he 
lost it. for he may never come back just on that account. 
Some men are backward about taking their turn, and un- 
less you let them know that they are next, they may lose 
it several times. Others are just as much to the opposite 
extremes, and prefer arguing a man out of his turn to 
waiting for their own. 

The business way of handling them is to see that 
each patron has his respective turn: so in small shops, 
where there is no waiting checks or registering machines, 
all the workmen, porter and all, should keep their eyes 
open. A good habit to form is to size up the waiting 
patrons and remark to the new comer that there is only 
three ahead, or five, or whatever the number may be; this 
will no doubt cause him to count the number waiting, 
and be ready when his turn comes. "Where the patronage 
lo Targe there is only one way to prevent trouble, and that 
is to have waiting checks numbered, and ask each cus- 
tomer who enters your place to hold his check and wait 
until his number is called or rung up on a register. 

Do not let any one outside of the shop hold a place 
ahead of the ones inside, without their (the waiting cus- 
tomers) approval, for in time it will cause you no end 
of trouble. Men will get into the habit of coming to the 
shop, going out, then coming in again and claiming some 
one's turn who has been waiting inside. 

Each workman may. and should, have individual cus- 



84 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



tomers and friends of his own, but the fact of his having 
them does not entitle them to loafing around the shop. A 
man who comes in the shop, takes a back seat and reads 
for a short time does not belong to the loafing class, and 
will not hurt the trade like a genuine lounger; althougn 
the passerby may glance in and pass you by, thinking he 
is waiting. 

Incessant loafing will hurt your business more thai 
anything, but to give advice on how to stop it is not easily 
done. If a boy spends his money with you, i.s a good friend 
and loafs around your shop at intervals, it is a pretty hard 
matter to tell him to leave; somewhat like the measels, 
"the kids just have to have them." 

Suggest to your regular partons that they have their 
heavy work, such as shampooing and haircutting, done ..t 
a time when you are not so busy, say most any day but 
Saturday. 

Don't:, for Apprentices ami Journeymen. 

l>ont' be impolite to customers. 

l>on't be untidy; it pays to be clean. 

Don't come late to work; it pays to come early. 

Don't be too familiar with strangers. 

Don't put a towel on a man before you lay him down. 

Don't pick up a razor before you tather the customer. 

Don't lather the ears, eyes, nose and mouth. 

Don't scrape a man; shave him. 

Don't begin shaving until you have lathered well. 

Don't wipe your razor- too much; you loose time. 

Don't use lather that is too thin; the heard won't out 
easy. 

Don't leave soap on a man's face; as you shave, shave 
it off or wipe it off with your finger. ■ 

Don't try to cut too wide a swath of beard at one 
time. 

Don't shave second time over without first washing 
soap off. 

Don't shave the face dry; keep it moist; when dry it 
smarts and burns- 

Don't shave against, the grain, or opposite from the 
way the beard grows. 

Don't sand stooped over so your breath is in your 
customer's face; stand erect. 

Don't strop your razor too much, especially when it 
is cutting nicely. 

Don't shave with a razor you know is too rough from 
over-honing-. 

Don't bear down on your razor too heavy; do the 
bearing with the other hand. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 8) 

Don't grip your razor too tight; hold it lightly, like 
you would a writing pen. 

Don't worry if you cut a man; still, don't make light 
of it. 

Don't apply creams or lotions until you wash the 
face clean. 

Don't powder the face until it is thoroughly dry. 

Don't blow hair from a man's face or neck with your 
breath. 

Don't wet a customer's hair without first asking him 
if he wants it wet. 

Don't let a chance slip of applying tonics, trimming 
the hair, singeing or massaging. 

Don't try to force anything on the customer. 

Don't use profane language in the shop and expect 
to make a "hit" by it, for those who use it do not gen- 
erally approve of it. 

Don't forget that it is just as essential in giving a 
good shave to thoroughly dry the face, as it is to lather it. 

Don't be content to obey orders only; he who obeys 
only what he is told to do will find it a long time between 
promotions. 

Don't be continually talking about bad luck: the 
chances are that it is a weakness that holds you back- 

Don't drink, smoke, or chew tobacco while on duty 
and expect to please your customers. 

Don't try to cut hair with dull shears, but if you 
are compelled to use them, hold the comb in a position 
so that you push the hair into the shears instead of pull- 
ing it from them. 

Don't argue with any one, especially those who have 
had more experience than yourself. 

Don't try to show people that you know it "all," even 
if you think you do. 

Don't waste your time and money being a good fel- 
low; put in your spare time studying something and take 
care of your money. 

Don't find fault with other people's work; that will 
not improve your own. 

Don't be continually moving around, and at the same 
time complaining because you do not accumulate anything. 

Don't be continually drawing your wages before they 
are due. 

Don't leave the shop without telling the foreman 
where you are going. 

Don't be afraid of a strict employer; you will never 
learn from an easy one. 

Don't form a habit of putting in unnecessary time on 
patrons; if you do, you will be low man every day; work 
fast. 



H6 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 

Doft'ts, Rub s and Maxims for Managers. 

1. Don't be away from the shop longer than you can 

possibly help. 

2. Don't use slang: in addressing your patrons or work- 

men. 

3. Don't uSs soiled or frayed linen for economy's sake- 

4. Don't begrudge taking a short rest for lunch on a 

busy day. 
T>. Ee clear and explicit in your business dealings; 

6. Never exchange cheeks with any one. 

7. Keep your credit good by using it sparingly and de- 

creet ly. 

8. Have a place for everything, and keep everything in 

Its place, 
ii. Be cautious how you go security for anyone. 

DJ. Don't be totally derelict about shop duties, it causes 
business to lull. 

1 t. Don't be slouchy and untidy in your dress and ex- 
pect your workmen to keep clean. 

1 L' Think before you speak, and say nothing to injur.' 
others, neither in jest or in earnest. 

13. Keep a memorandum book in your pocket to note 

particulars relative to appointments, addresses 
and obligations. 

14. Associate with men of good qualities, if you esteem 

your reputation, for it is better to be alone than 
in bad company. 

15. Never give a check to a stranger: it is apt to be tam- 

pered with and passed, causing trouble. 

16. Never draw a (heck for a greater amount than you 

have to your credit in the bank. 

17. Constantly examine your books and see that all of 

your affairs are attended to promptly. 

IS. K<.e;> copies of all important letters which you send 
away, and keep every invoice or letter of im- 
portance belonging to your business. 

ly. Learn to say No. with decision; and Yes with caution. 
"No," when it insists temptation, and "Yes," when 
it implies a promise. 

20. - on't fail to recognize a customer; if you can't wait 

upon him at once, acknowledge his presence at 
least- 

21. Don't wait upon a customer in an indifferent, half- 

hearted way; the same as to say, "I'm waiting on 
you as a particular favor. 
1!2. Curtail every possible expense and avoid outside spee- 
ulatioi s until you have made a success of your 
own business. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 87 



23. Don't discuss your bad luck, as it is most always 
caused from lack of good judgment or enterprise 
on your part. 

2 4. Don't forget that old patrons are generally more val- 
uable than new ones; if they leave the shop, there 
is some reason: discover it if possible and mak- 
it right. 

25. Don't allow your workmen to argue in a boisterous 
way; they may debate a subject amicably. 

2 6. Don't allow you workmen to draw their wages at all 
times of the week: teach them that they should 
make one pay day run until the next. 

2 7. Never be so conceited that you fancy that you know 

more about other people's business than they do. 

28. Never allow one patron to shave ahead, of or beat 

another out of his turn. 

29. Patronize and help those who patronize and help you 

30. Kemember that your obligations to your men do not 

cease when you pay them off; treat them as you 
would like to be treated. 

31. b'e ambitious and advertise your business. 

32. Let horseracing and gambling alone; they are trades 

all by themselves. 

3 3. One of the secrets of success is good health and being 

perfect master of your business. 
3 4. Always be willing to combine with other workmen 
and bosses to raise prices and shorten hours. 

Buying Supplies. 

Buying supplies for the shop now is ciuite different 
from what is was several years ago, both in what you pur- 
chase and the quantities you must buy. The interior of a 
modern shop is very interesting, for there you find hair 
tonics of all colors and odors; fine toilet waters, pure 
Witchhazel, quantities of excellext bay ram, antiseptic 
detergent face lotions, smooth, velvety face creams, mas- 
sage creams of all kinds, and many others which take the 
place of the old-time diluted bay rum. Antiseptic borated 
talcum powder, instead of the block of magnesia, trillian 
tine in fresh delicate odors, cosmetics in all colors, washing 
powders for the floor, bath and shaving soaps, polishing 
paste, sterilizing fluids, good shampoo and sea foam i - 
brighten up the customers' ideas. These are all nice f »r 
the patron, some of which he pays for extra, while 'he 
barber must bear the expense of many without receiving 
much remuneration; he gets pay for the labor of .shaving 
a man. while he furnishes face lotions, creams, salves and 
hrilliantine gratis. When the barber goes to buy all these 
little things he must use discretion. Buy your goods in 
■•is large quantities as possible, and notice low much ymi 



titt MACK'S BARBERS' GLIDE 

save by purchasing them this way. For instance, one 
grade of tonic which sells for one dollar per bottle; jf 
bought by the dozen bottles, you pay eight dollars, cost- 
ing you 66 2-3c. each. This same tonic can be bough* 

per gallon, with a 2 per cent discount on six gal- 
lons, when bought for cash: which is $3.60 per gallon. A 
gallon contains one hundred and twenty-eight our. 
divide this by eight, which is the number of ounces con- 
tained in the one-dollar bottle, and the bottle which cost 
you one dollar at first now costs you 2 2 l-2e. 

In buying shampoo, a four-ounce bottle costs you 
twenty-five cents. A gallon of the material can be bought 
If you buy it by the gallon four ounces cost you 
7 13-16 of a cent. Bath soap, which costs you five cents 
a cake, can generally be bought for $4.00 per box. of one 
hundred cakts. Don't those dollars look as good to you 
as they do to the other man? Then you should arrange a 
place for your goods and always buy them in large quan- 
tities. Nothing looks less like business than to have to so 
one from the shop, on a busy day, to buy 

and of this or a bottle of that: besides the money you 
lose by purchasing in such little bits. Eesides the little 
things, you must have light, heat, literature, water, linen 
and many other necessitites. 

ADVERTISING 
Does advertising pay? How many times have barbers 
i themselves this question, and how many more times 
have their poor opoinions and dull, unprogTCSsive intel- 
lects answered back. N 3 ne say it is money thrown 
away, and that if you once begin it you will be compelled 
to keep it up- So you do. money is easily wasted in some 
rtising; but how are we to know the right and the 
wrong way without experience? Along these lines it re- 
quires much study. It takes experience to learn and it 
takes money to experiment. So if you have never adver- 
tised, begin at or. - ad your money and learn. Lay 
aside so much from your earnings each month for adver- 
- ;.ly constantly how to spend that sum to the 
best advantage. To give advice in regard to "Judicious 
advertising*' is not easy, but as there are many lin- - 
successful advertising in any business, possibly a 
maxims might be found that would be commonly true in 
writ - - To study and think of your busines? clearly, 
and to describe it simply and completely, these are good 
ones: Clear vision and simple, honest description are the 
qualifications most necessary in the makeup of a good ad- 
vertisement writer. Don't be afraid to boost your business. 
Advertise yourself as "Smith. The Barber." "The Progr^s- 
and "The Enterprisii - 



MACK'5 BARBE.R5' GUIDE 89 



when you can do it honestly. You may use the first term 
under any circumstances, the others when you employ 
only modern methods. Too much effort at humor is not 
advisable, for if a man needs baths and first-class ton- 
sorial service he is generally in earnest; he wants good 
barber work, and not a joke. Be business-like and sincere 
in your writing, [f you ask a man to spend money with 
you, try to convince him that he is dealing with a \ 
tical, competent barber. 

Extensive and continual advertising is based upon the 
desire and expectations of establishing permanent business 
relations with the public. One striving for such a pur- 
pose should base every statement on a foundation of truth- 
fulness; therefore the real advertisement must lie i 
esting, convincing, practical and, above all, truthful. The 
majority of barbers if called on to write an ad. would, no 
doubt, present something very old and tiresome, as it re- 
quires more experience than most of them have had- 

For economy's salvo you must learn to be brief 
•concise without being dull and colorless. In writing an 
advertisement, you spend your money with every word, 
consequent ly your words must each have a value, or ai 
least not one of them should be wasted. 

Every real business man is interested in advert, 
and every barber, young or old, who hopes for successful 
business, should be interested in the same question There 
are many ways foj you to make money by advertising: 
while without some kind of worthy advertising, you may 
consider your chances of success slim indeed. Do not 
think for a moment that the writing of successful adver- 
tisements is an undertaking interesting to a few people 
•only; if that were true it would not attract attention in 
this book. 

Ads. will accomplish little if they are not based upon 
truth. 

The advertiser is short-sighted, a foolish investor and 
a future failure, if he begins an advertising campaign 
based on falsehood and exaggeration. Good advertising 
in connection with good work and courtesy will result in 
the distribution of haircuts and shaves on a large s< 
Earnestness is very essential; it impresses where all 
fails; it will prove prositively where counterfeits will not 
work. 

If you are thoroughly in earnest, ideas will be de- 
veloped; words will come, and good results are sure co 
follow. It would be almost impossible for a really earnest 
mnii to write a luke-warm ad. You may write something 
and say to yourself: "Will any one else believe that?" It 
may iot seem jusl exae.1 ly < ■ r. 



90 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



in earnest, and what you write is true, people will believe 
. in time they will know it. 

You should .he enthusiastic; 1 in you MUST be in 
* arnest. 

■ asked: "When is the time to advertise, and 
when is the time to stop?" Now is the time to begin. 
"Proscrastination is the thief of time." so begin at one.' 
and stop when you retire from business — not b fore. 

Do you i convince the trade with one of 

your advertisements? There is no reason under the sun 
why people should go crazy over you, just because 
read one of your ads- Keep a . : you may be an 

old concern, but you are new to n< le — absolutely 

new. To advertise just as other barbers do, is not the 
proper way. You may imitate a little, but too much of 
this will not pay, as constant imitation finally leads to 
suicide. Every age has it predominating thought, an 
be meritorious our thoughts on advertising should :-• 
al, for the man with one idea is tiresome. 

I/ITER VTTJRE. 

[f the older barbers who read these lines will put on 

their Clinking caps they will remember that there has 

a decided change of literature in the barber shops in 

the past few years. This change, which is for the good, 

I ■ to a betterment of taste s imewhere, whether the in- 
novation is i]\w to a literary improvement among the bar- 
I . i •■■•. or due to the changing pref< r< nces of a more enlight- 
ened public, is hard to say. However. a few years ago if 
you wished to pass away your time in reading, while unit- 
ing your turn in the barber chair, your choice of literature 
lay between the current issues of the Sunday Sun, Standard. 
Police Gazette i Nick Carter's, etc., and previous issues 
of these papers — with few exceptions. Nowadays it is an 
exception to find a copy of these < xiting periodicals in a 
lirst-t lass shop. 

Good local newspapers (dailies) are just about as es- 

ial to the better cIj ig matter 

le; they are a kind of h »us photograph of 

all passing events, consequently you should keep on hand 

the best daily news, some good magazines and weekly pa- 

e light, wholesome reading. 

Buy papers Which are not renowned for the features 
which made famous the ones mentioned in this arl i 

Good books are the means of promoting the general 
intelligence of the public, but the mass of the reading of 
the American public is not so much in books, but in pa 
magazines and periodicals. 

The theory that good reading goes far to make 
citizenship is advanced by statistics showing that the pro- 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 91 



gressive citizens of the land are the more educated clas 

le. And the effort to obtain and maintain a 
standard of reading- matter for the shop is a genuine 

--like and commendable one. This is precisely 
ture which the advancing- public would like ; 
that every evolutional barber should strive to support. ii 
you find better grades of literature in the sh oday 

than you did a quarter of a century ago. it is aim 
tive proof that you will find a more enlighb 
patrons in these si 

The enterprising barber probably studied then as he 
studies now, the tastes of his customers in regard to litera- 
ture, just the same as you would consult their pr 
in regard to hot towels, close shaves, tonics. • 

By keeping well read yourself you will have an idea 

as to what will suit your customers in the reading line. 

posted. Think and be original; but it' you haven't 

the power to originate new thoughts, then it is better to 

w others than to be of an antedeluvian style, and not 
up to the times at all. Magazines treating on tonsorial arts, 
circulars and books, or literature of any kind pertaining to 
the barber business, or just the reading matter which all 
barbers should have to glance at during their spare mo; 
ments. If it is only a catalogue from some supply house, 
if it is a new one, there should be something interesting to 
the barbers, and if you watch them closely you will see that 
the progressive ones have a place for these books wl 
they take care of them. 

What a pleasure it should be to even think of the 
large s who are every day scheming and gras 

for goods and knowledge, by which they may supply the 
workmen of the country towns, as well as the -cities, and 
how we should grasp any news, such as may be stored in 
catalogues and journals, by which our business may be 
benefited. Often have we seen the negligent workman pick 
up the new catalogue from some big supply house, glance 
at it unconcernedly and say most disgustingly: •'Same old 
thing." when that very book contained news of the most 
important nature for him. Tt held within its pages knowl- 

. and the kind of knowledge which he should have to 
dly carry on his 1 ut in his dull, can 

way he overlooks the new i< 

POLITICS. 

Political air will accumulate in tin- shop every four 
years regularly, and if you take much interest in it the air 
will be polluted with politics constantly. Everything is all 
right in its place; this is just so about politics, but the 



92 MACK'S BARBERS' GLIDE 



barber shop is not the place to hold primaries or con- 
ventions. 

What will become of the shopowner who sits with his 
mouth ajar and listens to the political speeches and argu- 
ments when he is neglecting his business, his shop and his 
patrons? 

Success is not an accident nowadays. Wealth is the 
gray matter under your hat. and every development in your 
iine is from an idea. 

Genius is in the solitude, but not in politics; so if you 
expect to benefit your business and help make a profession 
out of a trade, devote all of your time to the shop and its 
advancements. .Most things produced by human ingenuity 
are undergoing a process of rapid evolution: but politicians 
are not evolutionizing any barber enterprise, nor are they 
improving any barbershop paraphernalia to any great ex- 
tent. If you have friends who are worthy and who need 
your vote, go quietly to the polls, vote your ticket and keep 
your mouth shut. 

UNIONISM. 

To progress we should co-operate with and help our 
fellow laborers. We should approach the solution of each 
question of strife which may arise with a reas mable and, 
better still, a friendly, spirit. He who obstructs the reason- 
able adjustment of these questions by appealing to preju- 
dice may justly be regarded by all as an enemy to our 
best interests, whether he be journeyman or boss. It is 
a cut and dried theory that each union has its particular, 
individual interest, which may be legitimately improved 
by co-operation between employers and employes; but 
while standing up for our own rights, we should be .iust as 
conservative as possible, and not infringe on the rights of 
any other body Of men. 

The employee should not expect more of his employer 
than he justly deserves and if his boss is of the pro- 
gressive type, he will have justice measured out to him 
according to his work. The old doctrine so familiar to us 
all applies well to unionism: "Equal rights to all and 
sp< eial unjust privileges to none." 

Besides the unions here mentioned there are various 
others, some of which are h«>ss barbers' associations and 
some journeymen: while in places both are united and 
affiliate with each other. 

Barbers' unions have been formed throughout the 
country ever since labor began to organize, but the one 
which has been of most importance to the workmen was 
formed December 5, 1887. In the city of Buffalo, New 
York, five lone delegates met and formed the Journeymen 



MACK'S BARBERS' GLIDE 93 



Barbers' International Union of America — now well known 
throughout the Unite,! States and Canada. New York i 
being at that time quite well organized, sent Mr. 
Pinkelstone as their i me. who w; - 

first president of the J. B. I. U. of A. 

iventions were held later at Detroit, Mi 
F«.it Wayne, Ind., frand Rapids. Mich.. 1891. 

financial system of the union, which had been condu< 
in an unbusiness-like way, was changed at this convention, 
and reconstructed similar to that of cigarmakers at that 
time. It was also decided to publish an official journal. 
but lack of funds induced the president to turn the enter- 
prise over to M. E. Murrey of St. Paul. Minn. From his- 
torical accounts, the venture seemed to fail and later the 
union began to publish the Barters' Journal (now known 
as the "■Journeyman Barber"), with J. C. Mey< 
Paul. Minn., editor. 

The next convention was held at St. Louis, Mo., 1892, 
and the next at Cincinnati. Ohio. 1893. At this convention 
the due stamp system for paying dues was established; also 
a suggestion of adopting a sick and death benefit system 
to i e paid the members by the union. 

In 18 94 the delei at St. Paul. Minn., and 

important changes were made, which put the union on a 
firmer footing than it had ever been before. It was also 
decided to meet biennially instead of annually, as had been 
the custom before. 

The eigth convention was held at Evansville, Ind.. in 
This was said to be the first one held where the 
of the delegates were paid by the international- 
union direct, and it was the first one where they had a 
1 alance above all expenditures, after holding a convention. 
The union being about nine years old at this time and be- 
ing the first time in its history of having a surplus, it seems 
as if the members would have felt somewhat discourj - 
but they were not. This body of workers was destined to 
grow and attract, as we find them undauted by the yellow 
fever scare at Memphis. Term., in 1 8 9 S : then at Saginaw. 
.Mich., in 1901. The eleventh and last convention to date 
was held at Louisville. Ky.. 1904. It lasted a week and 
was said to have cost about $75,000. About 500 active dele- 
gates were present and at this convention it was decided to 
hold conventions only once every five years, the twelfth 
convention to be at Milwaukee. Wis., in 1: 

The union has grown from a mere handful of men in 
1SS7 to a strong ana" well established body of about 3 
members. Every state and territory in the Union b< 
represented by about 500 branch unions, and it has al 



94 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



$100,U(io in its treasury. It has dune much good for both 
employer and employe in the way of establishing- shorter 
working hours and a higher standard of wages, as well as 
in paying sick and death benefits. 

W. E. Klapetzky, formerly of Syracuse, X. Y.. was one 
of the leading members and advisers since the early '90's, 
or practically ever since the union lias been a union. 

RECIPES. 

One of the main factors of making a shop popular is 
that the quality and character of the toilet requisites shall 
be right. This refers to powders, hair oils, tonics, creams, 
etc. 

Sugestions Regarding the Mixing of Recipes in This Book 

Do not think Unit because you have tin- recipe to make 
anything that all you must do is to throw it together. Not 

some materials have no affinity to others. You can 
never make oil unite with water, it' you shake up oil and 
water together, then filter, you would not have much of 
the oil odor loft in the water; but if you cut the oil with 
alcohoihy mixing and shaking thoroughly, then add water; 
tiller, and the odor of the oil remains in the water as it 

• hrough the filter. 

To mix ointments, tonics, < tc, you should have the 
pestle and mortar, a small stove or lami» for heating and 
plenty of bottles, buckets and a filter with filter paper and 
fags, also a graduate and a pair of scales. 

BAY RTJM NO. 1. 

To one pint of alcohol add one pint of water, one tea- 
spoonfu'l of borax and one dram of oil of bay laurel. 

HAY RUM NO. 2. 

Saturate four ounces of magnesia with oil of bay laurel, 
then pulverize the magnesia, place in a filter and filter one 
pint of water through it. Add alcohol until the desired 
strength is obtained. 

BAY RTJM NO. 3. 

Oil of bay laurel 2 drams 

Jamaica rum 4 ounces 

Alcohol 2 4 ounces' 

Water 36 ounces 

Filter through magnesia. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 95 



BAY RUM XO. 1. 

Oil of bay laurel 2 drams 

Oil - L5 drops 

Oil of pimento 15 dr 

-cl as ounces 

v> a ' er 25 ounces 

Mix the oil and alcohol, add the water, set aside in a 
well-stoppered bottle for a week, then filter. 

BAY RUM. NO. 5. 

Oil of bay laurel % dram 

Acetic ether % dram 

Oil of pimento 2 5 drops 

hoi If, ounces 

Water - 16 ounces 

; the oils and ether with the alcohol, add the water 
and filter. 

MENTHOL COLD CREAM. 

Trag-acanth powder 80 grains 

Menthol 50 grains 

Glycerin 1 drams 

Alcohol 5 drams 

r 15 ounces 

Mix the tragacanth with the glycerin. Dissolve the 
menthol in the alcohol. Then mix the gummy and alco- 
holic liquids by trituration. Color a light pink: then add 
the water. 

CAMPHOR TOILET CREAM. 

Quince seed 60 grains 

Powdered borax 6 grains 

Glycerin 2 ounces 

Spirits of camphor 1 ounce 

Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops 

Warm water 14 ounces 

-rate the seed for several hours in the water. 
Strain, add the glycerin and in the mixture dissolve the 
borax. Dissolve the oil in the camphor and gradually add 
to the mucilage. 

* WITCHHAZEL COLD CREAM. 

White petrolatum 6 ounces 

White wax 1 ounce 

Spermaceti 1 ounce 

Distilled extract of witchhazel 2 ounces 

It the first three together slowly. Allow them to 
cool to some extent and add the extract. When cool add 
and stir briskly. 






\i VA'.^ BARBERS' Gt I1M 



CAMPHOK ICE. 

White wax 7 ou 

eti T ounces 

Puh 10 ou 

Mutl 28 ounces 

Olive oil '2 ounces 

fin 

Melt the waa ;her. and 

mphor in the mixture; thei 

ughly mixed and 
pour into the moulds to l cool place it will 

■■• 



COLD CRE \M 



Quince mucilai 
AJmo 

: ic acid . . 

■ rin .... 



fO ou 

1 OUl 



Take one ounce of qui : boil in 24 ounces 

fifteen minuti and add all other ing 

This will not become rancid, 



(dA(i:i;i\ (Kiwi. 



erin .... 
Oil of aim 

white wax 
lin find perfume, 
white, and 



ind 

the 



ounce:* 

. . 1 ounce 
-- 
B • unices 

oil, add the 
mortar until 



D \( r\ i ES < i;i \m 

Gum tragacdnth I ounce 

ho] 

■• 11" ou 

,iet daetyl< S . . . 2 ou 

Menthol I 

• ik the gUm in the water 4^ hours, shake often: 
strain through a cloth; dissolve the menthol in the alcohol, 
then mix all the g ents. If too heavy, add more 

• 



MACK'S BARBERS' GU1DI 97 

WHITE ROSE TOILET CREAM. 

Gum of tragacanth L 20 grains 

Borax L20 grains 

Glycerin 1 ounce 

\VaU r , 11 OU1 

Tincture of benzoin 2 drams 

Extract of white rose I 

Soak the gum in the Water till soft; diss »lve the bora : 
in the glycerin; mix the rwo solutions; add the tincture and 
strain through a muslin cloth. Color if desirerl, 

QUINCE CREAM. 

Quince Sim-, I .'$ oui 

Water 55 ounces 

Glycerin 6 ounces 

Boracic acid < 80 grains 

Tincture of benzoin • 12 drar 

Extract of rose or lilac 2 drams 

Heal aboul half the Water to boilii g; poui ii ov< r thd 
seed, add the acid, stir and lei it set for a few hours; 
pour the liquid off of the Seed and pour about L6 oui 
more water over them, letting them soak again. Mix and 
strain the two liquids; add the glycerin, then add the 
ture, stirring slowly. Add the perfume and the rest, of 
the water. Color if desired. 

<.i,y< i:ki\ JELLY. 

Rose water 1 LI <"' 

Glycerin ...... (; "" 

Boracic acid 240 grains 

Gelatin, from L50 to 250 grai 

Dissolve the gelatin in half the rcse water bj the aid 
of a gentle heat; also the acid in the glycerin. Mix, cool a 
little and add the rest of the rose water. The amount of 
gelatin varies to suit the thickness of I ie jelly. 

WHITE VIOLET Toil. 171 JELLY. 

Glycerin * " ll: ' * 

Tragacanth powder V* ounce 

Borax V* " ; 

Orris rout powder Vz ou 

Essence of caSsie - dra 

Essence of jasmine 1 dram 

Mix the essences wit h I he orris root ; di: 
in tin- glycerin, and mix with the tragacantl th< 

essence and orris rool by mixing thoroughly. 









■ 

: i 



SI XBVRX IiOTl S 






i I r - 



. 



DEI ERSH E rOIl ET \\ ITER 

s 

- 
- 



riMn r \\ isn 






- 



MACK'S BARBERS' Gt IDE 

PIMPLE WASH NO. '2. 

Boracic acid 

Puh eri :ed alum i , 

water i MU;1 ,-t 

Heat the water to boiling, add the ai Id, then add alum 

and shake well, strain and use several times daily. 

LIQUID SHAMPOO NO, i. 

While Castile soap powder 1 ounce 

rum 

Cologne water 

Water 24 ou 

Potassium carbonate 30 grains 

Borax 

Dive tiio soap powd< r in the water, heath 
add the other ingredients ami dissoh e. 

LIQUID SHAMPOO NO. 2. 

Tincture of cantharides I drj 

Ammonium carbonate I 

Potassium carbonate '- ounce 

i ay rum s oui 

Water s ou ncea 

Dissolve the salts in the water and add the othei 
gredients. 

L1QI ll> SHAMPOO NO. :t. 
Soft or green soap \\ ounces 

isium ca rbona te 

Alcohol 3 "ii 

Water 25 oun 

Dissolve the carbonate In 1 1 i * - water and add tin 
of it. 

LIQUID SHAMPOQ NO. 1. 

Potassium carbonate l ounce 

Borax ' nun,-.' 

Ammonium carbonate 90 

Spirits of soap '■• ounce 

rum A ounces 

Water 32 oui 

Mix, dissolve and color any shade «>r perfume anj odor, 

LIQUID SHAMPOO NO "». 

BOI ax his 

Ammonium carbonate 60 grains 

Glycerin 1 ounce 

Rum 8 ounces 

rum 8 OU] 

Water 12 ounces 

dissolve and color; the rum gh ood odor. 



1 00 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



LIQUID SHAMPOO XO. C. 

White Castile soap 2 ounces 

Potassium carbonate V6 ounce 

Alcohol 8 ounces 

Tincture of quillaja 2 ounces 

Water Us ounces 

oil of lavender 20 drops 

Dissolve the soap and the potassium in the water and 
add the others. 

LIQUID OH TOXIC SHAMPOO NO. ". 

Tincture of quillaja 10 ounce?" 

water 4 ounces 

Glycerin 3 ounces 

ge flower water 15 ounces 

Fluid extract of pilocarpus 4 drams 

Quinine sulphate 30 grains 

Dissolve the quinine in the cologne water and tincture 
of quillaja by heating slowly, then add the remaining in- 
gredients. Color and filter if you wish it to be clear and 
look nice. Numbers 1. 2, 4 and ." can be made thicker by 
adding from one-half to two ounces of cocoanut oil soap, 
in shavings, and it may he clarified by filtering. 

LIQUID SHAMPOO No. 8. 

Aqua ammonia 1 ounce 

Cocoanut soap 1 ounce 

Borax 1 ounce 

Med water 32 ounces 

Shave the soap very fine, and mix all together; color 
any color and perfume any odor desired. Ihis shampoo 
works without water, and is the cheapest made. 

SHAMPOO PASTE <>K JELLIES NO. 1. 

White Castile soap 4 ounces 

Curd soap 2 ounces 

Potassium carbonate 1 ounce 

Honey 1 ounce 

Heat the mixture slowly with enough Water to make 
a past-.-. 

SHAMPOO PASTE OR JELLY NO. 2. 

White eastile soap 2 ounc< s 

Ammonia water 2 OUl 

erin 1 ounce 

rum or cologne water, either 1 ounce 

Dissolve the soap in the water by heating, when nearly 
eold stir in i he nth< r ingr< di< nts. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 101 



SHAMPOO PASTE OR JEIiLY XO. 3. 

White Castile soap 4 < nances 

Potassium carbonate 1 oui 

Glycerin 2 ou 

Water 6 ounces 

Oil of lavender 4 drops 

Oil of bergamot 10 dr 

Shave the soap and add to it the water then the car- 
bonate. Heat slowly until softened then add the glycerin 
and oils. If too thick add water. 

SHAMPOO POWDERS NO. 1. 

Cochineal powders 40 grains 

Camphor 8 grains 

Borax 3 ounces 

Oil of rosemary 25 drops 

Mix. one ounce is sufficient for one pint of water. 

SHAMPOO POWDERS XO. 2. 

Pulverized borax 1 ounce 

Sodium carbonate, powdered 1 ounce 

Oil of rosemary l r » drops 

Camphor powder 2 grains 

Mix; this works well in one quart of water. 

SHAMPOO POWDERS XO. 3. 

Pulverized borax 3 ounces 

Quillaja powder 3 ounces 

Sodium carbonate, powdered 6 ounces 

Oil of cloves 10 drops 

This is a strong powder and a little of it will do lots 
of work. 

HAIR POMADE XO. 1. 

Yellow wax 2 ounces 

Castor oil 6 ounces 

Oilve oil 4 ounces 

t almond oil 1 ounce 

Benzoated lard 3 ounces 

.Melt the wax slowly, add the oils and lard; stir uncil 
cool and perfume to suit. 

HAIR POMADE XO. 2. 

■ a butter 4 ounces 

Benzoated lard 12 ouncss 

Tincture of benzoin 1 dram 

Oil of bergamot 1 dram 

Heat the first two slowly, stir and add the perfume as 
It cools. 



102 



MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE 



HAIR POMADE NO. 3. 

White wax 3 ounces 

r oil • 5 ounces 

oil - ounces 

Oil of rose 1° drops 

Heal slowly, stir until mixed; drop the oil In just as 
it cools. 

HAIR POM ARK NO. I. 

Castor Oil 1 t; om 

eti 3 ounces 

r bergamot 3 drams 

Oil of verbena Ms ounce 

Oil of lavender V2 ounce 

Oil of rosemary Vz ounce 

..id 10 grain 5 

Melt thf spermaceti, add the castor oil, then the other 
Allow the whole to cool undisturbed, and 
It will be clear. This preparation will k< ep. 

NOTICE. — In mixing the ingedients of pomades, melt 
s first, then add the lard, petrolatum or fats, ami 
allow them to marly cool before adding the perfume. 

SEA FOAM NO. 1. 

Aqua ia 1 ounce 

hoi 16 oui 

Tim andtharides 4 drams 

Wat< r 16 ounces 

Potassium carbonate x 'i ounce 

urn 4 drams 

Mix and dissolve. 

SEA FOAM NO. 2. 

Ammonium carbonate 120 grains 

Alcohol 2 ounces 

. rin 1 ounce 

Rose water 15 ounes 

Mix and dissolve. 



SEA FOAM NO. 3. 

Alc< >hol 8 on 

Water 8 ounces 

a ammonia 3 drams 

Tincture of arnica 1 dram 

Tincture of cantharides - drams 

Mix and dissolve. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



103 



SEA FOAM NO. 1. 

Fluid extract of quillaja 4 oui 

Glycerin 2 on 

Cologne water 4 ou 

Alcohol 8 on 

Rose water 8 our 

Mix and dissolve. 

CAMPHOR WATER. 

Gum camphor 1 oui 

Water 2 4 ounces 

Magnesia U ou 

Alcohol • 1 dram 

Rub the gum in the alcohol until it is fine; work up 
with the magnesia; add the water; stir and filter. 

COCOANUT HAIR OIL. 

Cocoanut oil ■ ■ • • 4 ounces 

Castor oil 3 ou 

Alcohol 7 ou 

Oil of lavender 6 dr 

Oil of bergamot 30 dr 

Oil of rose geranium 10 drops 

Melt the cocoanut oil and add it to the castor oil, 

which is first dissolved in the alcohol; shake well to 
them thoroughly, then add the other oils. 

TOILET COLOGNE. 

Oil of bergamot 1 ounce 

Oil of lemon 3 drains 

Oil of lavender 3 drams 

Oil of oranges 

Oil of cloves 1 dram 

Oil of neroli 30 dro 

Oil of cinnamon 30 drops 

water 12 ou 

Alcohol '. 96 ou 

Mix all the oils in the alcohol. Add the rose water and 
ill!- r. This makes over 3 quarts of fine colog 



FLORIDA WATER NO. 1. 

Oil of garden lavender. : 2 ou 

Oil of bergamot 6 uv 

Essence of ambergris 

Alcohol , 64 ou 

Mix and filter. 



104 



MACK'S BARBER'S GUIDE 



FLORIDA WATER NO. 2. 

Oil of lavender 1 ounce 

Oil of lemon 4 drams 

Oil of orange 4 drams 

< >il of cloves 2 drams 

Alcohol 60 ounces 

Mix and filter. 

FLORIDA WATER NO. :\ (Very Fine.) 

( Ml of lavender 1 ounce 

( >11 of bergamot 4 drams 

< >il of doves 2 drams 

i >il of rose 20 drops 

Benzoic acid 30 grains 

Alcohol 60 ounces 

.Mix and filter. 

LAVENDER WATER. 

Oil «d' lavender ' 4 drams 

Alcohol 24 ounces 

Rose water 3 ounces 

Magnesia, carbonated V2 ounce 

Triturate the oil with the magnesia, add the alcohol 
and shake, then add the water, color brown with caramel 
if desired, and filter. 



TOOTH POWDER NO. 1. 

Prepared chalk 30 ounces 

( oris root 2 ounces 

Tincture of vanilla 1 dram 

Oil of peppermint 1 dram 

Oil of rose geranium 10 drops 

TOOTH POWDER NO. 2. 

( trris root 1 ounce 

Prepared chalk 6 ounces 

Castile soap powder y 2 ounce 

Sugar, powdered V2 ounce 

( Ml id' wintergreen V2 dram 

Mix all the ingredients then add oil. 

TOOTH WASH NO. 1. 

Water 2 4 ounces 

Borax ' 1 ounce 

Spirits of camphor 1 dram 

Tincture of myrrh 1 dram 

Heat the water to boiling. Dissolve the borax first. 
then add the others. Color and filter or strain. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 105 



TOOTH WASH NO. 2. 

Powdered myrrh Vi ounce 

Powdered borax *4 ounce 

Powdered red saunders M ounce 

Powdered sugar 14 ounce 

Cologne water 3 ounces 

Alcohol 4 ounces 

Water 9 ounces 

Mix, let set for several days, shaking often; filter and 
bottle. 

TOOTH WASH NO. 3. 

White Castile soap 2 ounces 

Water 8 ounces 

Alcohol 8 ounces 

Oil of orange, red 15 drops 

Oil of cinnamon 10 drops 

Dissolve thp oils in the alcohol, mix all and filter. 



TOOTH PASTE NO. 1, 

Precipitated chalk 8 ounces 

Castile soap powder 2 ounces 

Oil of cloves 20 drops 

Oil of nutmeg 2 drops 

Oil of rose 10 drops 

Form into a paste with a mixture of half glycerin and 
half water. 

TOOTH PASTE NO. 2. 

Powdered cloves 3 ounces 

Powdered cinnamon 3 ounces 

Powdered orris root 5 ounces 

Precipitated chalk 10 ounces 

Pumice powder 5 ounces 

Oil of cloves 2 drams 

Color pink with a solution of rartninp and mix with 
honpy sufficient to form a paste. 



TOOTH PASTE NO. 3. 

Cream of Tartar 10 ouhces 

Sugar of milk 10 ounces 

Carmine 80 grains 

Essence of peppermint 1 dram 

Mix and make into a paste with pxartly three pari* 
honey and one part glycerin, weighed. 



106 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



DEPILATORIES NO. 1. 

To remove superfluous hair — 

Sulphurated baryto 120 grains 

Zinc oxide " 6 grains 

Starch 6 grains 

Convert this into a smooth paste with water and apply 
to the hairy skin in a thin layer after drying for about ten 
minutes; scrape it off and the hair comes with it. Wash 
the skin and apply some blanb oil. 

NO. 2. 

Barium sulphide 1 ounce 

Powdered magnesia 1 ounce 

Corn starch 1 ounce 

Use the same as No. 1. 

NO. 3. 

Strontium sulphide 300 grains 

Zinc oxide 100 grains 

Starch 100 grains 

Menthol 5 grains 

This should be in a very fine powdered form and used 
in a paste the same as No. 1 and No. 2. 

This sulphide has the advantage over barium sulphide 
in two ways. It is non-poisonous and does not evolve hy- 
drogen sulphide. 

BRILUI ANTINE NO. 1. 

Honey 4 ounces 

Glycerin 2 ounces 

Cologne water 2 ounces 

Alcohol 8 ounces 

Extract of Jockey club 6 drams 

BRILLI ANTINE NO. 2. 

Castor oil 3 ounces 

Glycerin 1 ounce 

Alcohol 10 ounces 

Oil of cloves 10 drops 

Oil of bergamot 2 drops 

Mix. 

QUININE HAIR TONIC NO. 1. 

Quinine sulphate 20 grains 

Bay rum 4 drams 

Glycerin 4 drams 

Tincture of candtharides 2 drams 

Tincture of capsicum 2 drams 

Water 15 ounces 

Mix, dissolve, color and filter. 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 



QUININE HAIR TONIC NO. 2. 

Rum 3 

Glycerin 3 

Alcohol 4 

Rose water 21 

Cologne water 3 

Quinine sulphate 15 

Mix, color and filter. 



107 



ounces 
ounces 
ounces 
ounces 
drams 
grains 



QUININE HAIR TONIC NO. 3. 

Quinine sulphate 2 grains 

Tincture of candtharides 2 drams 

Fluid extract of jaborandi 2 drams 

Alcohol 2 ounces 

Glycerin 2 ounces 

Bay rum 6 ounces 

Rose water 14 ounces 

Dissolve the quinine in the alcohol and bay rum, by 
warming just a little, add the other ingredients, color and 
filter. This makes a good shop tonic, and it can be made 
with twice as much water, and still do good work. 



QUININE HAIR TONIC NO. 4. 

Diluted sulphuric acid 15 drops 

Quinine sulphate 90 grains 

Alcohol 2 ounces 

Glycerin V2 ounce 

Rose water 14 ounces 

Titurate the quinine with the acid, gradually adding 
the water. .Add the remaining ingredients and filter. 



FALLING HAIR. 

The hair falls out at intervals on everybody's head, it 
doesn't make any difference how much care is taken of it, 
but if the scalp is in a healthy condition new hair is con- 
stantly coming in. Some people's scalp becomes hio"^ 
bound, the roots of the hair become diseased and if pro^ 
care is not taken of it they lose it. Most of the recir> 
falling hair are given for two specific purposes: 
disinfect the scalp and the other is to increase '' 
tion in the scalp; so if you keep your scalp r 
and massage it regularly you are just abo 1 
you would be to be constantly applying 1< 
without massaging it. 



108 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 

rou F\1.I.1N(, II ai i:. \o. i. 

rum 4 ounces* 

Sweet oil 4 ou 

tore of cantharides 20 drops 

Wash the head once b week, dry thoroughly and apply 
this lotion daily 

FOB FAI.FINO H lift, NO. t. 

Aqua ammonia 1 ounce 

Olive oil L 1 ounce* 

The ammonia causes a smarting sensation and Stimu- 
S the circulation. " :s it from injuring th- 

This preparation will become rancid although it is 

\\ hen fresh. 

FALLING HAlR NO. 1. 

closely and applj salt water with a little bora* 

Kdded 

FALLING HAIR NO 2 
e hair and rub th< s aih with the t , 

Falling hair no 3 
Uric chloride 

■ r :• ou 

. . 2 ou - 



\ .-ther day 



MIM 11 I WlVl S Kl ( ll»KS 



ro i;k\io\ r nvr fkom nil sKr\. 

- the heads of parlor match* s, soaked 

applied to the parts si stain Is* 

remoA Ihe burnt h« . 

KlMd\l RINGWORM OB TO CI KF BARBER'S 
in H OB IMPETIGO. SO. l. 

r 



... . 

■• \-' '■■■ 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 109 

TO CURE BARBER'S ITCH OK IMPETIGO. 

Tanic acid 90 grains 

Lac. sulphur 180 grains 

Zinc oxide 1 ounce 

Starch 1 ounce 

Perolatum 2 ounces 

TO CURE BARBER'S ITCH OR IMPETIGO. 

Tanic acid 15 grains 

Precipitated sulphur 30 grains 

Petrolatum 300 grains 

TO CURE BARBER'S ITCH OR IMPETIGO. 

(Zinc Ointment.) 

Benzoated lard 1 ounce 

Zinc cxide V2 onuce 

Tincture of benzoin V 2 dram 



ASTRINGENTS TO STOP BLEEDING. 

Ferric sub-sulphate of iron, known as Monsel's Step- 
tic Powders. Also zinc sulphate. 

A GODD LIQUID (LEANER. 

Carbonate of potash 4 ounces 

Coacoanut soap 2 ounces 

Water 1 gallon 

TO (LEAN BOTTLES. 

I'se small shot, soda and warm water 1 , 
TO POLISH BOTTLES. 

Cut up potatoes tine and put them in tbe bottle with 
Bait and water. Shake rapidly and rinse. 



TO CLEAN AND POLISH BOTTLES. 

Shot with warm water and prepared chalk, this cleans 
and polishes, but where the glass in the bottle is thin shot 
will sometimes crack it. 

To polish SILVERWARE. 

Use water and prepared chalk. Rub well with a soft 
leather or chamois. Never use soap to polish silverware 
with. 



110 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 

TO CLEAN MARBLE. 

Soda 2 ounces 

Powdered pumice stone 1 ounce 

Prepared chalk 1 ounce 

Mix these with water and rub well all the stained 
parts, wash with scap and water, then dry with a dry cloth. 

TO REMOVE SPO'iS PROM FINISHED GOODS. 

Saturate the spots thoroughly with benzine, then place 
two pieces of very soft blotting paper— one under and one 
over tin- soot. Press well with a warm iron and the blot- 
ting paper will ahsorb the grease. 

TO REMOVE WARTS. 

Touch daily with nitrate of silver (lunar caustic) or 'with 
nitric acid, and sometimes aromatic vinegar will remove 
them. The lunar caustic produces a black and the acid 
a yellow stain, while the vinegar scarcely discolors at all, 
still it is not always so i ls either of the others. 



FIFTY QUESTIONS. ANY OF WHICH A FIRST-CLASS 
BARBER OUGHT TO ANSWER CORRECTLY. 

THE HAIR. 

What causes grayness? 

Explain the singeing theory? 

Describe the growth of a hair. 

How does it derive its lif< 

What is meant by the follicle? 

How does the hair receive its oil? 

What is the cause of dead hair'.' 

Does the hair grow after death? 

What causes hair to curl naturally? 

How do good tonics affect the hair? 

Give two reasons for hair falling out? 

Why will hair not grow from a scar? 

Why do_es.it become dry and brittle"? 
" What are the principal constituents of hair° 

What treatment is necessary to prevent dead hair? 

What causes the peculiar ordor in burnnng hair? 

What causes the sleek, shiny appearance of scars? 

What effect does continuous cutting have on the hair? 

How do animals cause the hair on their bodies to 
gtand up? 

What treatment do you recommend for curly beards, 
which turn and grow into the skin? 



MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE. I 1 1 



THE SKIN. 

Name three astringents. 

What is the complexion? 

Describe the growth of the skin. 

How would you check bleeding? 

What is meant by the papilla? 

What effect does facial massage have ? 

What effect does close shaving have on the skin? 

What nationality of people have no coloring pigment 
in their skin? 

For a chapped, sensitive skin, would you recommend 
an alcoholic or an oily preparation? 



THE SCALP. 

What is dandruff? 

Is it transmissable? 

What causes an extremely oily scalp? 

What causes extreme dryness of the scalp? 

Do perfectly healthy heads have dandruff? 

What effect does massage have on the scalp 



DISEASES AND ANTISEPTICS. 

What is acne? 

What is eczema? 

Name three other skin diseases. 

Name three good antiseptics. 

Why are they used? 

What is barber's itch? 

Is it contagious? If so, how? 

Where does it generally affect one? 

Which is usually best, a liquid or a paste preparation 
to eradicate it? 

How would you cleanse a shaving cup? 

Name a good way of sterilizing tweezers? 

How would you clean brushes, combs, etc.? 

What precaution would you take in shaving one af- 
fected with any disease? 



THE TRADE. 

What is the barber's trade? 
How do you tell when a razor is sharp? 
What is the barber's pole emblematic of? 
What makes a good filling for razor strops? 
What is most essential in learning the trade? 




112 MACK'S BARBE 

014 481 097 1 

What other trade or profe*. 
with the barber's trade? 

How were the two separated? 

Why were laws made to regulate the practice of bar- 
be ring? 

What class of barbers first attempted to have laws 
made? 

If a razor is honed properly does it require heavy or 
light stropping? 

Give suggestions on lathering, shaving, beard trim- 
ming and hair cutting. 

Note.— Answers to the foregoing questions may be secured from the author 
J. M. McCamant, Ogden. Utah, or from the revised edition of Mack's Barbers' 
Guide, which will be published in the near future. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

iff 



014 481 






